PCT Days 57-65

Day 57

Miles 789-790 (plus 7.5 Kearsarge Trail)

I wake up and there is a dull pain on the left side of my jaw. Not tooth pain, but pain in the joint so that I can't bite down all of the way. Maybe I have tetanus? Of course I don't have tetanus. Maybe I just slept on it weird or something.

I get up and walk across the street to the only breakfast place in town, Jenny's. Gretchen is there, eating with Halfmile and Deb. I haven't seen Halfmile and Deb since the first few weeks on trail. I think I mentioned it before, but Halfmile is the guy who makes the maps and the iPhone app that I use to navigate the trail. I've met so many trail-ebrities! I join their table and eat a giant burrito, knowing it will be my last town meal until Mammoth in 8 days.

On the way back to the hostel we see a hiker in the distance walking towards us...

...Who is it? As she gets closer she starts dancing and acting like a crazy person. Oh my god It's Teddy Rose! We all hug and laugh and bring Teddy back to our hostel. She got back on trail a few days ago and has been hiking mostly alone. She's about two days behind us, but getting closer!

Teddy took the bus into Independence from Lone Pine so she agrees to wait with us while we get our Subway sandwhiches to-go and hitchhike back to the trail.

While waiting for a hitch, someone uses the word "moxie" and Gretchen lights up.

"That would be a great trail name," says Gretchen.

"I've never heard of anyone else with that name," replies Teddy Rose.

"That's your trail name!" Rocket exclaims. Rocket uses her trekking pole to dub Gretchen with her new trail name, Moxie. It suits her perfectly.

We get a ride, thanks to Moxie, after only ten minutes. We hop into the bed of a truck and ride the 13 miles back to Onion Valley trailhead.

It's my first day on trail in something like six days. I can't bring myself to actually count how many days I spent off trail, but it was enough to make my body feel like jello when I'm hiking again. My legs burn as I ascend the 3,000 feet in elevation back up to Kearsarge Pass. I fall behind Gretchen and Rocket and take extra breaks, but I don't mind. I'm excited to be back on trail and I feel great. I find a rock to sit on in the sun and eat part of my sub.

I can't eat my sub. I bite down on it, but my teeth don't go all the way through. I rip off a piece of the sandwhich with my teeth and try to chew it, but my jaw really hurts when I bite down. I'm confused at what could cause such a strange pain and I resign myself to tearing off small pieces of my sandwhich, chewing as best I can, and swallowing the giant chunks.

After passing Kearsarge and getting back to the PCT, I see a note from Rocket in the sand. I'm so happy to be hiking with such wonderful and loving people! 

Yes, they call me Glit. I've also gone by Captain Glit, Sprinkles, and a few other less appropriate names. 

Anyway, I get to camp and find Rocket, Moxie, Princess, Mr Sandals, Fence, Sugar Pine, Lingo, and Arabia. I set up my new ground sheet (thank you Miles!) and cowboy camp under the stars. Estero, Acorn, and Choop hike in as the sun is setting and join our large camp. I'm happy.

Day 58

Miles 790-804

Glen Pass

I was really cold last night, I should sleep in my tent tomorrow. I get up leisurely as the sun comes out and watch everyone scurrying around camp, cooking breakfast, and packing their things. It's a short climb to Glen Pass and we all take our time getting out of camp today. 

We hike past a few frozen lakes on our way to the pass. In the picture below, the trail crosses the snowfield to the right of the lake. Can you see the little people behind me hiking towards the top?

I get to the top of Glen Pass right after Sugar Pine and Lingo. Yogi's guide says that this is the scariest pass and I immediately see why. I put on my microspikes and get my poles ready for the steep and icy descent.

The trail starts by crossing a long and icy snowfield before descending straight down over a mix of rocks and hard snow. It's steep and some people glissade down sections to avoid the dangerous climb down. 

Here's a view of the descent from my spot, safe at the bottom. The pass is visible in the top center of the picture. We crossed to the left, then had to go straight down the mountain. In this picture, there are actually 7 or 8 people visible. Did I mention that it's REALLY steep? 

Here's a close up of a few people crossing the first snowfield.

I glissaded three times, but only once I got close to the bottom. I sat on the ground and held my poles high in the air. The snow built up in my crotch as I slid down, and I felt like I was going out of control a few times, but glissading was pretty thrilling.

After the snow, the descent continues for the rest if the afternoon, passing Upper and Lower Rae Lakes and miles of beautiful rivers.

The PCT and JMT are the same trail for a long time in this section, so we're still on the John Muir Trail.

After descending 4,000 feet into a valley, we cross a wooden suspension bridge and start the 6 mile climb to our campsite. Eventually I get to camp and I'm completely exhausted. I think it's a mix of readjusting this level of exercise and readjusting to the altitude. I arrive at camp at 7:15pm with just enough time to set up my tent, eat, write my blog and go to sleep. Tomorrow we're going to try to cross two passes, Pinchot and Mather.

Day 59

Miles 804-819

Pinchot Pass and Mather Pass

Princess said she would wake us up this morning by yodeling at 5:30am. A few minutes after 5:30 I hear her walk by my tent and say (rather than sing), "yodel, yodel, yodel." I sit up and slowly start going about my routine. I stretch for a minute or two in my sleeping bag, then I unscrew the valve on my sleeping pad. Once the air is out of my pad and I feel the cold, hard ground I start moving. Next I change into my clothes for the day and roll up my pad and sleeping bag. Then its outside so I can eat, finish packing, and go to the bathroom. 

Today I'm the first person to be awake and ready this morning. What a change! I loiter while everyone else finishes packing and eat two pieces of energy bread from Schat's in Bishop. It's a dense wheat bread with walnuts and apricots and raisins. It looked perfect in the backery, but now it's gross. The bread is dry and tastes like cardboard. I follow it up with a meal replacement shake that I've had almost every morning since Campo. The Carnation Instant Breakfast shakes are surprisingly good. It's difficult to predict what you will and wont get sick of.

We start the morning with the final ascent of Pinchot. The trail is completely covered by snow and we use the GPS on our phones to make sure we're moving towards the right pass. We skate on top of the earky morning ice, crossing the occasional boulder field and stopping to breathe every few minutes. The pass isn't visible in this picture, this is the pass I thought was Pinchot before Mr Sandals pointed to my left. 

We cross a saturated, frozen meadow and see the switchbacks covered 80% in snow. I take the lead and push up the switchbacks, walking in an earlier hiker's frozen footprints. 

The top of Pinchot is melted and I can see both directions from the pass. I sit on a large, flat rock and eat a snack. Princess, Mr Sandals and Moxie make it it up but I'm freezing and decide to start the descent. 

On the way down Pinchot, which is relatively easy, I see a ranger walking towards me. I say hello and she tells me that I'm going the wrong way. Snow covers the trail and I haven't been paying attention to which set of footprints I'm following. I thank her and change course, but she stops in front of me and obviously wants to chat more. I ask her about her job and what she does every day.

This ranger grocery shops for an entire season at once (May-September) and the forest service takes it all by mule to a remote cabin in the high country. She then spends 5 months hiking the local trails, away from the cabin for a week at a time. She checks permits and bear canisters, records who she sees (in case a hiker's relative calls Search and Rescue), and reports on the condition of the passes. Awesome! She looks to be about 25. It sounds like she doesn't make much money, but she gets to have friends visit her at the cabin during the season. Plus, as she says it, "rangers get paid in sunsets."

This ranger doesn't want to see our permits, but she takes our names and makes us knock on our bear canisters.

The trail is relatively flat for most of the day, a rarity in the Sierras. We cross river after river, a few having rocks to jump on, but most having nothing. I hike behind Fence, then Arabia, then fall behind everyone when I get distracted by a pretty view.

 My feet freeze almost instantly when I step into the fresh snowmelt. When I get to the other side I have the urge to quickly tear off my socks and shoes, but I don't. I jump up and down and try to keep moving to warm up my numb toes.

We follow the river up winding valleys, slowly climbing before the short and steep ascent up Mather Pass. I chat with Acorn on the way; she started the PCT right after finishing the Florida Trail in March.

Today is Rocket's birthday, but I haven't seen her for a while. She fell behind this morning, so I start telling every hiker I see going in the opposite direction to wish her a happy birthday.

I pass everyone while they're on a break and I listen to a KEXP music podcast while I cross the long snow fields before Mather Pass. I look up and see these incredible switchbacks carved into the rocky mountain.

Fence passes me and we talk for a bit about his life. He's a paramedic and lives in Vancouver, BC. He races up the switchbacks past me and I look down to see everyone below me. I smile as I look at all of these people I'm hiking with today.

I get to the top of Mather Pass and meet Barbie and Butters. Barbie gives me a big chunk of cheese and I sit for a few minutes looking at the new valley we are to traverse. Everyone arrives and is antsy to keep going, wanting to get down into the valley below. Sugar Pine takes this sweet picture for me before we start the long descent.

The descent off Mather is steep and icy, but not as high as Glen. We carefully walked from one rock outcrop to the next and glissade on our butts when we can.

We get halfway down into the valley, into the trees you can see to the right of the lake in the picture above. I am in the back of the group and find Princess and Mr Sandals setting up camp. Everyone continues a few more miles except for Moxie and I. The four of us set up our tents, eat dinner, and go to bed by 8 for the long day ahead. I'm excited to get some sleep.

Day 60

Miles 819-835

"Yodel yodel yodel!" I wake up to Proncess's yodel and my head is pounding. It's 6am and I've overslept. We're not crossing any passes today, so I turn over and close my eyes again. It's 16 miles to the base of Muir Pass and we can't cross that pass in the afternoon. I hear Princess, Mr Sandals and Moxie leaving camp. They say that they'll see me at the base of Muir. I go back to sleep.

I'm out of bed once I let the air out of my sleeping pad. I pack my things and I'm on the trail by 8. The trail gently descends along the shore of a giant, clear lake and I see six or seven hikers fishing for trout.

After the lake, the trail begins a long descent into the valley below. I take a few minutes to sit on a rock above the valley and relax.

Two thousand five hundred feet below, the valley feels balmy compared to the crisp air at the lake.

I stop for lunch on the shore of a river. I feel sticky so I peel off my clothes and jump in the freezing snowmelt. I rinse my extra clothes and fill my water bottles.

Sometimes I get homesick and sentimental while I'm hiking alone. Today I take my time, resting when my body asks for it and not pressuring myself to hike quickly. The valley feels long as it continues to wind down in elevation. The ground is saturated with snowmelt and there are bugs everywhere. I have a tough time with Mosquitos, but today their presence makes the valley feel more alive.

Another break then up up up, the trail starts it's 3,000 foot climb to Muir Pass.

Almost to our proposed campsite for the night I take another break. I've really enjoyed hiking alone today.

I crest another meadow and find a large campsite. A bunch of other hikers have their tents set up and are sitting around their bear canisters, talking, cooking dinner, and trading snacks. I join them for a while, then crawl into my tent and take two Benedryl. I didn't sleep very well last night and I consumed a lot of caffeine this afternoon. Tonight I need sleep.

Day 61

Miles 835-855

I wake up to yodeling again today, but this time I'm better rested and I giggle at Princess's attempt at an American accent. I stay in my sleeping bag for 30 more minutes, waking occasionally and telling myself I should get up. When I do get out of my tent I see Moxie, Princess, and Mr Sandals eating breakfast and getting their things together.

We start the morning by climbing the last 1,500 feet or so to Muir Pass. The snow starts almost immediately, about 2 miles from the summit. We take slow, calculated steps in the snow around lakes and streams. I posthole up to my ankle or my calf every tenth step, falling past the icy crust into the wet snow below. I try to avoid the snow as much as possible by walking from one rock field to another. This gives me a goal for each little section and a place to pull the snow out of my shoe or adjust my backpack, but it also takes me on a very indirect path to the pass.

I follow the wrong set of footprints and find myself ascending to the pass in a different way than the other hikers. I keep climbing until I look up and see my first view of the Muir hut on Muir pass. 

I reach the hut and drop my pack. I'm  glad the climb is over and that I've reached another milestone on the PCT. I sit inside the hut and eat a snack with Choop and a few new hikers that I've met during the past week: Joker, Cracker Keeper, Barbie, and Midway. Princess, Mr Sandals, and Moxie show up a few minutes later. 

After the pass the trail descends past valleys of frozen lakes. 

Once we finish a few more miles of postholing through streams and rock fields, we are exhausted and take a long break by a melted lake. I set out my things on the warm rocks and count my remaining food. Can I make it 4 days? Will I be forced to eat the dreaded energy loaf from Schat's?

I get up and start the rest of the descent into the next valley.

The trail switchbacks down the side of the mountain and meanders through a few more open meadows before reaching the Evolution Creek crossing. The guidebooks and that this crossing is dangerous and sometimes requires you to ford fast, chest deep water. We cross upriver and the water is calm and only calf deep.

After the river we just have a few miles to hike until we reach our distance goal of 20 miles for today. The trail follows a huge river through the forest and down the mountain.

Today my jaw feels better. I can clench my teeth and bite down comfortably for the first time in days. Maybe it was stress related? Maybe I was grinding my teeth at night?

Princess, Mr Sandals, Moxie and I find a great camp site right off the trail. I set up my tent and lite a fire while everyone else goes about their evening routine. I don't normally light fires because they're so much work to put out, but tonight I light a one quickly and sit down to cook my dinner. The others join me and we talk about the next pass and how we need to do about 20 miles tomorrow and the next day to make it into Mammoth at a reasonable time with enough food.

Day 62

Miles 855-878

We start the day with a 3,000 foot climb to Selden Pass. This pass is one of the smaller passes on the PCT/JMT at only 10,910 feet. 

The climb to the pass is long and all I can think about is pizza and nachos. Packing 8 days of food is difficult, especially when you're a hungry PCT hiker. I know that I have enough food to get me through one and a half more days of hiking, but I still feel like I'm starving. I count and recount my food at every meal. How many snacks do I get today? What if I get hungry and want more than my ration? 

Hiking while hungry is difficult and today is the first time I have to stop when the hunger gets really bad. I have to eat 250 calories every hour or I start to feel nauseous. I've never felt this type if hunger before, but I can't eat more than my ration.

Even with the hunger I feel good today. I feel strong and the miles fly by. As we get closer to the top, there are a few lakes and false passes before we reach Seldon.

The lakes and streams we crossed are packed with huge trout. 

Looking back on where we've come.

After Selden pass, the trail drops gradually into the next valley.

We cross another "dangerous" creek today, three different times, and the water is a little above my knees. I guess this is a benefit of hiking in such a low snow year. The weather outside is hot and, once you're used to having wet feet, the fords are more of a treat than a trial.

Another long steep climb, than an even more steep drop into the valley below.

We drop to 7,837 feet, the lowest we've camped in weeks. We stop before a huge steel bridge and set up our tents. A bunch of other hikers join the four of us and we all sit in a circle and cook our dinners. 

Each person says what they're having for dinner and everyone else listens intently. We eye each others meals to make our next resupply choices better. I'm buying cream cheese and more chips.

Everyone continues talking, but I need rest. I set up my tent without the rain fly; It's a warm night and I like feeling the breeze. I crawl into my sleeping bag and go to sleep.

Day 63

Miles 878-903

Another pass today, we start with a huge climb to Silver Pass. This climb takes about 10 miles.

I reach the pass after Joker and Cracker Keeper and I sit on a rock and look at the trail in front of us. I'm glad the big climb is over, but I know that we still have more climbing today after a short descent.

More hikers arrive and we hang out on the pass for a while. I descend with Moxie, Princess, and Mr Sandals behind the other hikers. Today I can feel everyone's hunger around me. People seem irritable and the Mosquitos swarm as we try to stop for lunch.

I eat a piece of cheese, a handful of crumbled energy bread, a candy bar, and a hot sauce packet (I'm so hungry) before I see a JMT hiker walking towards us. Princess looks up at her and says, "hello, do you have any extra food?"

The hiker smiles and replies to Princess in German. She tells us that she accidentally packed four days of food for a two day section and she would love to lighten her pack. She gives us dinners, candy bars, and a giant summer sausage. The hiker's name is Alice and she has always wanted to hike the JMT. She is super friendly and takes a group selfie with us before hiking on in the opposite direction as us. 

With renewed energy from the extra food, we continue hiking. We pass lake after lake, all huge and cold and sparkling in the sun.

Today is the last big day of this long stretch in the wilderness and has the best views yet.

Mile 900... bitches!

Moxie, Princess, and Mr Sandals stop after 17 miles. The rest of the hikers stop after 20 miles. I can't stop thinking if the diner in Reds Meadow that we'll reach tomorrow and I keep hiking, hobbling past everyone I know. I eventually stop in an area of fallen trees and find a small campsite. I set up my things slowly, crawl into my tent, and fall asleep dreaming about omelets and hash browns.

Day 64

Miles 903-907

I start packing as soon as there is enough light in the sky to see what I'm doing. I race down the trail, knowing I can make it to Red's Meadow by 7am When the diner opens. 

I make it to the diner by 7:15 and order a huge breakfast of eggs, potatoes, bacon,  and toast. I drink two orange juices and four cokes before the gang starts to trickle in. While everyone else eats their breakfast I start to research a place to stay on my phone. Joker, who has hiked the PCT five times, mentioned that condos in Mammoth are cheap this time of year. I find a condo for Princess, Mr Sandals, Moxie and I right in the center of town.

We try to yogi a ride into town from other diners with no success. We sit down beside the road to hitch and get a ride in no about twenty minutes.

We get to the condo, bask in all the worldly comforts, and head out to get some food.

We get back to the condo and relax for a bit before Moxie and I decide to walk down to the Mammoth Brewing Company for a tasting.

We each have two flights of beers and stumble back to the condo. 

At the condo we make pizza rolls for the Germans and watch Catfish on MTV. By 9pm I'm falling asleep so I unfold the bed in the couch and slip under the clean white sheets.

Day 65

Zero day

Today is a resupply day so after sleeping in and picking up food from the bagel shop below, we all sit around planning the next few sections. We eventually head into town to buy food, supplies, and go to the post office. I mail my ice axe, crampons, and poles back to Seattle. I'm out of the main snowy areas and I'm excited to get rid if the extra weight.

Leaving the outfitters I stumble on this note...

Back at the condo we all relax and go about our chores. I sew up a hole in my tent, separate my food (of which I now have way too much) and start to make a salad for tonight. We invited a few other hikers over for dinner and we're making chili and salad.

Hog, Dirty Girl, and Tidy Camper come over in the evening with more food. We laugh and eat, talking for a few hours. 

The next few sections are only 3 or 4 days long. I'm excited to keep moving north, but I'm still feeling a little off. Maybe it's because I'm tired and calorie-starved, but I still don't feel comfortable. I miss home, my friends, my routine and my job, but I remind myself that this trip is only six months long. Even though it often feels like I've been gone forever I know that the things I miss will still be there in September.