PCT Days 73-82

Day 73

Miles 1018-1028

I wake up at Kennedy Meadows North feeling ready to get back on trail, but I have a lot of packing still to complete. I have to get rid of my bear canister, organize four days of food, and eat breakfast before I can pack my backpack. The big group of us from last night gather again for breakfast in the restaurant below the dorms. I feel more than a little hung over from last night's Franzia binge and I have eggs and sausage and toast and pancakes and juice. I feel a bit better.

After packing my things and eating a soft serve ice cream from the store, I leave the dorms with the Germans and start walking the mile to the main highway. On our way, a guy drives by and rolls down his window.

"I can take one of you" he says excitedly.

"OK, I'll go with you," I reply.

He jumps out of his BMW in the middle of the road, running around to make room for my pack. Right before he opens the door he stops and looks up at me.

"The one down side is that, if I pick you up, I might not get to pick up the cute girl down the road."

"OK," I say, "that's cool."

He runs back around the car, gets back inside, and drives away. The Germans and I laugh; people are so weird. I think the cute girl he was referring to is Moxie. I can't wait to tell her this story.

We get to the main highway and find Solitude trying to hitch. We join him and I sit in the gravel on the side of the road. The day is hot and I reach for my hat. Oh shit, I left my hat a mile back in the dorms. I consider leaving it, but I can't. It's one of Ethan's favorite hats and I begged him to let me take it on the PCT. I start walking back to the resort, wondering if the rest of the gang will get a hitch before I return. 

I get back to the resort, find my hat, and ask a family in a big truck if I can ride in their truck bed to the main highway. They agree and we bump down the one lane road towards the highway. When I get there the others are gone, probably already back on trail at Sonora Pass. 

I stick out my thumb, expecting to be here for a while, but the second car that passes me pulls over. The driver smiles, gives me a thumbs up, and waves me over. He's from Ireland and in San Francisco on business, but he's driving out to Bishop today to ride his bike and do some rock climbing. He tells me about biking through the Pyrenees in Europe while we drive up to the pass. 

Back on trail, I call Ethan to say hello and call my dad to wish him a happy Father's Day.Then  I start up the trail, passing a sweet couple that ask about the PCT, and resting at the top of a dry, volcanic mountain. The landscape is changing so quickly. It's more dry, more rocky, and less forested than I've seen in the past few weeks.

After cresting the mountain, the trail drops several thousand feet into a wooded valley. The trail is covered in patches of snow and I loose the path over and over again. I get frustrated and side step directly down the mountain. When I get to the bottom I start to feel nauseous. Maybe I shouldn't have had so much wine last night. 

I pass the Germans at seven miles in, camping early to rest Princess's hurting tendons, and find Solitude right off the trail at mile 10. I decide to stop here, it's nice to have an easy day right after town and I still feel sick to my stomach. I set up my tent in a big campsite a few hundred yards from Solitude and I spend the rest of the evening relaxing and starting in on those five bags of chips.

Day 74

Miles 1028-1055

I'm packed and ready to hike by 6am and I can see that Solitude has already left. The trail starts climbing up the side of the canyon and scattered everywhere are the most beautiful flowers (or maybe it's a fungus). I think I heard someone call them snow flowers, but I'm not sure.

Two hikers race past me, introducing themselves quickly. Go-Go Gadget and Salty Snack are their names and man do they hike quickly. 

After reaching the top of the canyon, the trail flattens out and traverses long, low hills with the occasional lake and waterfall. It's so beautiful! 

Another day with 15 miles before lunch, I'm loving this gentle terrain. 

As I continue the hike through a wet valley, someone pops out of a bush and unintentionally scares the bejesus out of me. He eventually catches up, introduces himself as Mowgli, and launches into a story about wanting to buy a motorcycle. He's only hiking a few more days before leaving the PCT for good and he's considering riding a motorcycle from Tahoe back home to Colorado. He doesn't know how to ride a motorcycle nor does he have a motorcycle license, but he does have good health insurance so I encourage him to take a chance.

Mowgli and I hike together on and off for the next few hours over rolling hills and scattered forests. I can't believe this section is so scenic and beautiful. I enjoyed the high sierras, everyone's favorite, but this section feels like paradise.

So many great views!

I eventually pass Moxie and the Bubbies as we climb to Ebbetts Pass. Once at the pass, there's a backup of hikers including Washpot and Butters sitting at the road. It's only five more miles until the next campsite, so I sit for a moment before I hurry off the pass and down the mountain towards camp.

I get to camp after Solitude, Go-Go and Salty Snack and I pick out my campsite. It looks like this campsite is the last one for a while and more hikers start slowly walking in: Butters, Washpot, Mowgli, Midway, Half and Half, and Quinoa. They all set up their tents and a few of us gather around Go-Go's site, laughing, cooking our dinners, and drinking some of the wine I brought for this section. 

Another big day tomorrow, so I'm thankful that the wine makes me tired. I crawl into my tent while the sun still shines and fall immediately into a deep, restful sleep.

Day 75

Miles 1055-1083

It's the summer solstice, happy Hike Naked Day!

I walk out of camp alone this morning, after Solitude, but before all the others. Up a big mountain, down into a valley, my feet glide alone the trail. With a beautiful trail and no major discomfort, this is what I call float walking. 

It's a weekend and there are day hikers around every corner. This section of trail seems really accessible and I cross gravel and paved roads on my way to the next pass, Carson Pass. As I get close to the pass, also the location of a major mountain road, I meet all sorts of people coming up the trail. Parents with children take up the whole path and couples both in and out of shape hike up the mountain.

When I arrive at Carson Pass I see a visitors center bustling with tourists and volunteers. The volunteers have name badges with the title "Volunteer Docent" and one asks of I'm a thru-hiker. I confirm that I am and she motions to a table behind her, "we have fruit and cupcakes and I'll fill up your water bottle." She shows me to a chair and tells me that they have a scale as well, if I'd like to weigh myself.

It all seems so strange and it takes me a few minutes to shake off my hiker brain and realize what's going on. After hiking alone for an afternoon, trail magic can be such a surprise. I finally weigh myself (160, but that can't be right, I started at 200lbs), grab an orange, and take a seat. I sign the register and put a piece of the juicy orange into my mouth. Yum! Fruit!

In comes Go-Go, Salty, Mowgli, and Butters, but they're all eager to continue hiking. They want to get as close to Tahoe as possible tonight so they'll have a short day tomorrow. Mowgli asks if I want to split a room with him, Go-Go and Salty in Tahoe. I do and we all pack up and cross the road together, waving goodbye to the friendly docents who loaded us up with fruit and calories.

I hike out of Carson Pass with Salty Snack. After talking about the basics, Iike where we're from, we realize that we both went to The Ohio State University at the same time. In fact, she lived a couple of blocks from the Pier One where I worked. Small world! 

We hike for a few more hours and chose a campsite in a large meadow FILLED with mosquitos. They are everywhere! I swat four off of Go-Go while brushing a few more off of my neck. They're biting my face! My hands! Baaaaaaaaah! Mosquitos are making me crazy! 

I set up my tent as quickly as possible to avoid the mosquitos. Once out if danger, I start to feel excited once again. I'm so excited to get to Tahoe tomorrow, another zero day!

Day 76

Miles 1083-1092

Too drunk on food to write much, let me just say that Tahoe is wonderful. Our hotel has an all you can eat buffet and they don't kick us out after a few hours.

I see the Germans, the Bubbies, and Moxie at dinner and we form one big table with Mowgli, Salty, and Go-Go. There's a mix up with the beer and we end up with an extra free pitcher of a delicious local brew.

Mowgli and I decide to test our luck at the penny slots and he wins $250 after a few minutes. I play a Dolly Parton machine and end the night up 45 cents, not too bad!

So. Much. Food. Can't. Think.

Day 77

Zero Day

We all wake up at 7, thru hiker curse, and Mowgli hands me a $100 bill. He asks if I'll pick up Starbucks from downstairs and I happily comply. Free coffee!

While drinking my coffee, Go-Go mentions that he has some glittery nail polish and I let him paint one of my toenails.

Errand time- haircut, groceries, food, shower, food.

At some point Go-Go convinces the front desk to give us a room upgrade, something about a non-functioning bathroom fan, and they move us to a suite on the 15th floor. Salty decides to hike out today, but a new hiker named Whistle comes to take her place. Bye Salty! It was great meeting you and I hope to see you again, I can tell that we're kindred spirits!

Go-Go, Whistle and I decide to go to the buffet, but when we try to leave the new room the door won't budge. What in the world? We all try the door to no avail, it's stuck. I call the front desk and they call an engineer. It takes 40 minutes, but they eventually get the door to open. Go-Go quickly works his magical powers of persuasion and scores us free passes to the buffet, including lobster.

Drunk on gluttony once again, I stbke back to the room. Mowgli has a few friends staying in the room tonight and they're a little rowdy, but I don't mind. I'm so full and happy and satisfied that nothing could keep me from falling asleep tonight.

Day 78

Miles 1092-1104

I woke up today feeling ready to leave Tahoe and get back on the trail; what a change from other town stops!

Once we're all awake we walk to breakfast.

I'm tempted to just eat quickly at a Burger King on the way, but I can't resist the pull of this great cafe we found yesterday. Their food is homemade and oh-so-delicious. I order the huevos del Driftwood: medium eggs over tortilla chips with black bean chili, cheese, guacamole, and salsa. I also split a waffle with Go-Go.

After breakfast, Go-Go, Whistle, and I walk back to the room to digest while Mowgli stays at the restaurant to hang out with his friends. At the room I take a 20-minute nap, then soak in the suite's giant bathtub.

Once Mowgli returns we all pile in his buddy's car, run a few errands, and drive back to the trailhead on Highway 50. I feel a little sluggish from the big breakfast, but I'm also excited to be back on the trail. I hike behind Go-Go for a while, knowing that soon he'll race ahead.

After a few miles we arrived at Echo Lake Resort. The PCT goes right through the resort and Go-Go and I couldn't resist the temptation to stop. The front of the store is crowded with people eating shakes and root beer floats. I order a berry milkshake and join some other PCTers at the picnic tables in the sun. I see a few people I know, the big crew with Washpot and Butters, and meet a few new hikers including Handy Andy. 

The trail out of Echo Lake is a consistently gentle grade. It goes up for the first seven miles, then down for 3 more before reaching the outlet of Susie Lake. I start slowing down to look for a campsite and Go-Go decides to keep hiking. 

Goodbye Go-Go! Thank you for your generosity and genuine warmth!

I find a campsite hidden from the trail on top of a small hill. There's only one site, so I set up my tent and start my evening routine. I can see that others are walking by and stopping at a campsite right below my hill. Here's the awesome view from my campsite tonight.

The mosquitos are vicious here as well, so I apply more deet and crawl inside of my tent. I boil water for dinner inside my tent (don't worry, I'm not using my rain fly so there is ventilation) and taste the mushroom noodles I bought in Tahoe. They're flavorless, so I decide to add some flavor and calories by mixing in a handful of broken chips. Muuuuuuuch better!

I love these short days when I get to stop early and take my time eating and getting ready for bed. I'm also excited for a big day tomorrow. Goodnight mosquito friends!

Day 79

Miles 1104-1124

The sun rises in the base of the valley at 6am and light filters into my tent. I usually wake up naturally around 5:30, but today I wake up only when the light hits my face. I turn over and cover my face with my arm. I finally let the air out of my sleeping pad at 7:15, forcing myself to sit up, put in my contacts, and start packing.

Everyone that camped in the large site below me last night is already gone. I start on the trail going up a long ascent, in and out of the patches of evergreens. I see a turkey run across the trail and I reach for my MP3 player. Wait, was that really a turkey? I look to my left and see the bird again, running alongside me  staying 3 feet away to my left. It has beautiful yellow feathers puffed up on it's neck and it struts around trees and bushes to match my speed. Is it a male grouse? Some other type of wild fowl?

I continue climbing for three more miles until I crest Dicks Pass, a mountain range spread out before me on the other side. It looks like I can see 50 miles out, lakes, rivers, peaks, valleys. I sit for a few minutes at the pass and eat two single serving packets of blueberry granola. As I'm packing the trash into my bag and getting ready to start hiking again I see Soapbox hiking with someone I've never met. I introduce myself to Soapbox's friend, his girlfriend out hiking with him for a few days, and I move on just as they are sitting down. I'm feeling pretty OK today and I need to keep moving if I'm going to make 25 miles.

After four more miles I see Choop come out of nowhere and hike up behind me. I haven't seen Choop since Tuolomne, but he's sort of known for coming out of nowhere. He hikes so fast, I say hello as he jogs past me. We start switch backing up a hill, Choop getting further and further ahead of me as the switchbacks get shorter and steeper.

After an hour of following Choop I realize that something is off. I've had this feeling before in Yosemite. Am I on trail? I thought the trail should be going down for a while, not switchbacking up a mountain. I look at my phone and see that at some point today I got off trail. The phone says that the trail is a third of a mile to the southwest, but I look southwest and it's straight down the side of the mountain. Ugh.

I crash through brush and trees, moving slowly downhill as I weave around obstacles on the steep slope. I hate to get lost and leave the trail I'm on, but I feel pretty confident using a GPS and compass. I find the trail right where it should be and sit to think about how in the world I got so lost. It must have been when I started following Choop.

After getting back on the PCT I can feel my adrenaline still pumping. I try to use it to my advantage and increase my speed, but soon I start tripping over rocks and roots. I roll my ankle once, twice, and decide that I need to sit down and calm myself so I find a big rock and sit to eat my lunch. By this time it's already 2:00pm and I've only made it ten miles, obviously not including my extra hike up and down a mountain. I decide that there's no way I can make 25 miles today so I take an extra ten minutes for lunch, resigned to the fact that it will be a shorter day than expected.

After lunch I continue hiking over rolling hills into the Desolation Wilderness. It's a beautiful, but repetitive trail with no big views. The sky starts turning dark as I hike through the late afternoon and I watch it wearily hoping it doesn't start to rain and slow me down even further.

I eventually hit 20 miles and decide to stop for the day. I didn't reach my original goal, but 20 miles is a good day and I'm happy that I made it this far sanely and in one piece. I swat five mosquitos off of my calf, three off my left elbow, and one off my neck as I set up my tent quickly to lessen my contact time with bloodthirsty insects.

As I'm finishing setting up camp I see Soapbox and his lady friend again. She seems to be having a tough time with the hiking pace, and who wouldn't, so they decide to camp next to me. She crawls in the tent while Soapbox and I start a fire and cook our dinners. We talk about the trail and our life at home. He's a really smart, funny, nice guy and I enjoy talking to him as the sun goes down. 

I eventually look at my watch and see that it's past 9:30pm. I yawn and say goodnight to Soapbox. Hopefully tomorrow I'm more willing to get up early than I was today! Today was exhausting!

Day 80

Miles 1124-1127

I wake up a few times during the night to the sound of rain pattering on my tent. When I wake up again at 5:30, the rain is still falling. The storm shouldn't last very long, heck it wasn't even predicted, so I guess this means I get to sleep longer!

I turn over, snooze a few more times, and eat my breakfast while waiting for the rain to stop. It never does. I finally start packing at 8:30 and get out if camp quickly after that. My tent and rainfly are soaked, so I strap them to the top of my pack hoping I can take them out to dry once the sun shines again. Soapbox and his girlfriend are still in their tent as I leave camp and I wish them well on the rest of her visit.

As I start the ascent to Barker Pass the wind begins to pick up. The rain starts blowing horizontally under my umbrella as I crest the pass. I'm uncomfortable, already wet from the waist down, but I feel good. 

When I get to Barker Pass the wind picks up even more and the temperature feels like it's dropping. I hike on quickly, trying to stay warm in my shorts. I'm wearing shorts because they dry much quicker than pants, but this wind is making me second guess that decision. 

There's a road that goes over the pass and, a total surprise, I see that there's a public privy. I've heard of hikers waiting out storms and even sleeping in restrooms, but until now I've never seen the need. Right now though, that cement building looks like heaven. 

I sit in the bathroom for a while and warm up as the storm rages on outside. An hour goes by and I start seeing cars coming in and out of the parking lot, perhaps coming in for a day hike and changing their mind once they see the weather. I start wondering if I could hitch into town from this road. No, that's ridiculous, I'm fine. My tent is wet and it will likely still be damp when I set it up tonight, but that's not a huge deal. 

Then I see some joggers coming off the trail and running towards their car. I change my mind and decide that I do want to hitch into town. Why not? This isn't a contest and I don't have to prove how tough I am by walking cold and wet through a storm. I want to dry my tent and charge my electronics and why shouldn't I?

I flag down the couple, explain my situation, and they happily agree to give me a lift to Tahoe. On the way down the mountain I learn that they're brother and sister, Carl and Renee, and they're originally from Rockford Michigan. My ex-boyfriend's family is from Rockford and it turns out Renee grew up with my ex's brother. Small world!

Carl and Renee drop my off in Tahoe City and I thank them profusely for the hitch. Tahoe city is 45 minutes north of South Lake Tahoe, but still on the lake. It's sunny and beautiful down here and the streets are bustling with tourists in stretch pants and sandles. What a change from an hour ago! I find a motel room and book it to the nearest pizza place.

After lunch I pick up some ice cream at Safeway and go back to my room. I explode my pack on the bed and start pulling out my things to dry.

The trail can be so unpredictable, but today is another example of how the trail provided when I really needed it. I'm broke and these motel rooms aren't cheap, but I'm warm, happy, and excited about the adventures to come. 

PCT Days 66-72

Day 66

Miles 907-917

I don't want to leave Mammoth. I feel distracted and pack my bag slowly while playing on my cell phone, paying full attention to neither. I'm avoiding the inevitable departure from comfort. Why is leaving town so difficult, I ask myself as I put the key cards on the kitchen counter and walk to the elevator.

The German's, Moxie and I get a ride back to the trail head at Red's Meadow by the sister of a hiker who lives in the area. I'm grateful that she went out of her way to drive us to the trailhead, but I'm having a hard time focusing on the conversation while she drives. I watch the resorts and roads turn into trees and rivers as we wind our way back into the Sierras.

I get out of the car feeling like im on a vacation that's gone on too long. I feel restless even though I'm physically exhausted and unprepared even though I'm doing the same activity I have been for the last two months.

My backpack is heavy, I may have gone overboard with my food for this 4 or 5 day section, the sun is making me sweat uncontrollably, and the trail is packed with tourists. We're hiking past Devil's Postpile. The trail is swarming with moms wearing jean shorts and dads carrying babies on their backs. I feel seperate from these people, visitors to my uncomfortable reality.

I see a sign that says I'm entering the Ansel Adams Wilderness right before the John Muir Trail and the PCT seperate for 14 miles. The JMT goes from Yosemite to Mt Whitney and shares most of it's miles with the PCT, but in a few sections like this one the trails diverge. The guidebook recommends taking the JMT for this section, and most hikers do, but I decide against it. On a spur of the moment decision I split from my friends and take the PCT alone. I'm in a bad mood and I don't want to spoil anyone else's time. Besides, maybe some time alone will help me feel better.

I walk a few miles, feeling good about my decision to take some alone time, before coming upon a couple and their horse eating on the bank of a river. The man asks me about my hike and introduces himself as George Two Horses. He's a section chief of section A of the PCT, from Campo to Warner Springs. He's in this section for the summer helping with trail maintenance. George Two Horses gives me some greif for not being a paid member of the PCTA, he says the trail doesn't take care of itself, but becomes quite friendly as he asks more about my hike. He asks if I'll count the number of trees in the trail for the next 8 miles and email him with the number. I agree and hike on.

I hike up a river valley for two hours before deciding to take a break. I see a campsite between the trail and a cliff edge, so I stop and lay my things on a wide, flat rock. I set out my solar charger and my phone, use my pack as a pillow and close my eyes.

I wake up in the sun twenty minutes later and decide to set up my tent. I don't feel like hiking today and I could use more sleep. I make a rice side for dinner, it's steak flavored rice tonight, and I crawl into my tent while the sun is still shining.

Day 67

Miles 917-942

I start hiking early, climbing up the side of a valley and switchbacking until I come to the top of a ridge. I turn around and take a picture while the sun rises and spreads its light into the valley I hiked through yesterday.

I continue to climb the ridge until I come to a large flat area dotted with deep blue lakes. This is Thousand Island Lakes. The area reminds me of my trips to the Enchantments in Washington. It's incredible to be in an alpine zone with delicate looking flowers contrasting the jagged snow covered peaks. 

The PCT rejoins the JMT at the beginning of the lakes and I sit for a few minutes, wondering if Moxie and the Germans are ahead of me or behind. 

The trail descends from Thousand Island Lakes into a deep, rocky valley before starting the climb to Donohue Pass. As I hike down into the valley I see JMT hikers hiking south. Most JMT'ers hike North to south and these hikers all started in Yosemite only a few days ago. They still have all of the big passes to cross: Muir, Mather, Glen, Forrester. Their packs look huge and I imagine they're stuffed with fishing poles, three-person tents, and too many clothes. I cruise down the trail, feeling like a veteran hiker with my small, well-organized pack. 

The trail moves towards Donohue Pass through a giant boulder field and I sit on the biggest rock in the area, opening my bear can and pulling out my lunch: Olive cheese focaccia bread, summer sausage, and pepper jack cheese. 

I'm so excited to eat but I can't get my summer sausage out of it's plastic wrapper. I don't want to reach into my pack for my knife, so I squeeze on the wrapper, trying to force the sausage up and out of the plastic. The sausage finally releases it's grip on the plastic and it shoots straight up into the air, over my head and into the boulder field. The sausage lands on top of a rock and rolls down to its base. I scramble down the boulder hurriedly, brush the dirt (and probable marmot poop) off the sausage and eat it anyway.

After lunch I hike the rest of the way up to the pass. The top of the pass is covered in snow, obscuring the trail, but I eventually find my way and sit on a warm rock. I take a long break, hoping that someone I know will hike over soon as well.

After an hour on the pass I see Moxie hiking through the snow. She wants to hike all the way to Tuolomne today, ten more miles. She says there is a snack bar and I agree to go with her, but only for the snack bar!

The last ten miles take us into a big open meadow. My feet hurt, but I distract myself by deciding on what I'll eat at the snack bar in Tuolomne Meadows.

Tuolomne Meadows is a campground in Yosemite. They do have a snack bar, but it's closed when we arrive. I set up my tent in the backpackers camp and walk around the massive campground. I eventually come across a big campsite filled with PCT hikers including Sug and Lingo, Acorn and Estero, Fence, Choop, Hog, and a few new hikers I haven't met yet. Soapbox, Quinua, Pedi and another guy whose name I forgot, so many hikers. I join them for a while and we all sit around the fire telling "LNT confessions."

LNT confessions are confessions of ways that you've broken the principals of Leave No Trace. A few people confess to not packing out their used toilet paper (cough cough) and one even confesses to pooping on top of Mt Whitney. Waste doesn't decompose at the top of Whitney so you're supposed to poop in a bag. I'm glad I went to the bathroom before summiting that day.

 

I sit for a while longer at the fire until I feel the exhaustion and fatigue settling on my body. Today was a long day and I'm pooped.

Day 68

Miles 942-951

I don't want to leave Tuolomne, but I don't want to stay either. I still feel like I'm moving so fast I don't have a chance to be present in a single place before moving on to the next.

I want to wait for Rocket, but I find myself packing my things and getting ready to hike out. After breakfast and a little resupplying I leave Tuolomne with Moxie and the Germans, right behind the Bubbies (that's what we call Firecracker and Tidy Camper). Yosemite looks much different than the areas we've crossed before, the mountains are smoother and there are waterfalls everywhere.

After getting a few miles into the day I realize that I forgot to check in with my dad before the next section. Sorry dad!

We catch up to the bubbies quickly. We all eat lunch together on a rock overlooking a waterfall and I get a chance to talk to Firecracker a bit more. 

Firecracker practices acupuncture and Chinese medicine. She tells us about each of our constitutional types, which are specific elements that have some sway on our personalities. Firecracker says that I'm an earth type, the same as her. She says that she could tell my type quickly because of my voice. Earth types are extremely intuitive about people, natural caregivers, and easily forget about their own needs. Interesting!

After lunch the Bubbies hike ahead the Germans, Moxie, and I. We hang back, hiking slowly and talking about stopping. We've only hiked 9 miles, but I'm feeling sluggish and it's only supposed to be a partial day. Tortuga joins our camp as well, I haven't seen him since Red's Meadow, and we have a campfire on a big, flat rock. I'm happy that today is a light day, the Bubbies say this coming section is pretty difficult and I need more rest.

Day 69

Miles 951-970

I wake up around 6am and listen to the others eat breakfast and pack their things. I don't want to get up yet, it's too early and I'm too comfortable. I snooze a few more times before letting the air out of my sleeping pad at 7:30. I'm alone in camp and I take my time eating breakfast.

I hike out alone, not expecting to see any other hikers for a few hours. To my surprise I catch up to Joker, Cracker Keeper, Washpot, and Butters within an hour. So much for my solo hike!

Oh well, I really like everyone in this group. Joker and Cracker Keeper are an adorable couple from Bellingham who manage to split all of their food without issue, which I think says a lot about their relationship. Washpot is a friendly guy who works as a seasonal ski patrol in Colorado, and Butters is equally as friendly and hails from just outside of Portland.

We all hike together for a little while until we cross paths with another forest ranger. She asks to see our bear canisters and lectures us about fires and packing out our toilet paper (cough cough). 

So many people never see forest rangers on the PCT, I'm surprised that I've seen two so far.

The trail goes up and down as usual, but much different than what I've gotten used to in the past few weeks. In the high sierras we had a lot of elevation gain in the morning, but the afternoon was all down hill. In this section the trail undulates slowly, passing high mountain lakes... 

...and low lazy rivers before climping up to Benson Pass.

On the way to the pass I stop and rinse my hair and face in a waterfall. The ice cold water on my face wakes me up for the last push up the mountain. As I get to the top of the pass, I can see Volunteer Peak slowly rising into view. Volunteer Peak is the tall peak in the distance on the left side of this photo.

I recline at the top of the pass, elevating my feet on a rock and eating snacks until the rest of the hikers arrive. We all talk for a bit before finishing the last few miles. We descend to Smedberg Lake before climbing once again to our camp site.

We find a beautiful campsite right below Volunteer Peak and I set up my tent in the mountain's long shadow. Princess and Mr Sandals stop too and we cook our dinner around a small campfire. I drink half a bottle of wine with dinner and stumble to my tent. I'm definitely lacking wine again in the next section.

Tortuga arrived at camp as I was crawling into my tent. Ten minutes later he asked if I was sleeping and told me to look at the sunset. Beautiful!

Tonight I'm going to sleep happy and content. I'm realizing that my best days are those when I hike alone, at my own pace. I enjoy meeting up with others at camp, but if I hike too close to them during the day I find myself feeling anxious about keeping up or falling behind. I feel at home in my tent and, for the first time in a little while, I feel like I wouldn't want to be anywhere else on earth.

Day 70

Miles 970-988

Today is a picture day! 

Highlights include:

-Lots of elevation gain again

-I thought it was going to rain (it didn't)

-Got to camp early and hung out with the Bubbies, the Germans, and Tortuga

Day 71

Miles 988-1007

More pictures!

I pass the 1,000 mile mark at lunch. Only 1,660 miles to go! Wooooo!

I get to camp first and start a fire before other hikers begin trickling in. The campsite is at the base of a big mountain only 11 miles from the next road, so I know there will be a lot of people camping here tonight. First comes Moxie, then the Germans, then the Bubbies, then two hikers I've never met, Solitude and Ridge Runner.

This is the biggest goup I've seen around a campfire on the PCT and we have a great time. Firecracker is playing the bongos on someone's bear can, we're singing songs (including some of my favorite Janis Joplin songs) and we all watch the fire and about love, heartbreak, and our lives before the trail.

Also, today the Bubbies asked me if I'm afraid of my own death. They are now officially two of my favorite people. 

Day 72

Miles 1007-1018

The past few days have been strange and today is the strangest of all. I feel good. I mean, I feel GOOD. I've never felt as comfortable on the trail as I have in the past few days. Day 66 was a low point, but since then I've felt progressively better and better. Today's hike has a lot of elevation gain (I acknowledge that I say that almost every day), but my energy level is high and I'm ready to hike these miles!

The trail takes us up, out of the forest and onto some massive volcanic ridges. How can the PCT keep getting more and more beautiful? How us this possible?

More snow... I thought I was done with the snow!

We make it to Sonora Pass before lunch and start trying to hitch a ride. Hitch hiking is still so strange to me. 

You really think I'm trying to give you a thumbs up? Does this hat make me look more or less intimidating? Why would you pull over just to tell me that you can't give me a ride?

Eventually we get picked up by a lovely couple from Sacramento celebrating their  25th wedding anniversary. We all squeeze into the cab of their giant truck and ride down the pass into Kennedy Meadows.

Kennedy Meadows North isn't a town, it's a pack station. I can't google the term "pack station" so I can't tell you what exactly a pack station is. I do know that it involves horses, cowboys, and packing things. This pack station has some cabins, a store, a restaurant, and some hiker dorms on the top floor.

The station rents dorms and offers a shower, laundry, and a dorm bed for $35. I share a room with the Germans, Moxie and Solitude. We all met the Bubbies and Tortuga at the restaurant and eat dinner. This is such a great group of people, everyone is so funny and so kind. I buy a $6 bottle of Franzia from the store and split it with Princess and Solitude. Solitude buys another bottle and I think I drink most of it. Now I'm drunk and tired and happy and ready for the next four day section to South Lake Tahoe.