Thursday, August 28, 2014

Post-PCT Update

It has been 19 days since I left the PCT.

When I first got back to Seattle I was excited to see my friends, move into my new apartment, and get back to my comfortable routine. At the same time I was anxious about having to answer everyone's questions. Why did I leave the trail? Am I that sick? I felt confident about that I made the right decision for myself, but I was having a difficult time verbalizing my feelings in a way that satisfied other people's curiosity. I knew that I was still processing the experience and I found myself experiencing shame in a way that I didn't expect.

I started having nightmares every night about leaving the trail. One night I dreamed that my ex-boyfriend angrily blocked the trail in front of me and I couldn't get around him. Another night that my father berated me for no apparent reason and dropped me off in the middle of the desert, miles from the nearest trail head. The following week the setting of the dreams changed, but the feelings they contained did not. I dreamed that I was fired from my job and I dreamed that I ate my friend's toddler and was too ashamed to tell her that it was me. I find it interesting how the feeling of shame has arisen in my subconscious even though I consciously know that I have nothing to be ashamed about.

After seeing a doctor in Ashland and having several stool tests, I still have no clear answer about the physical symptoms that I was, and still am, experiencing. The doctor suggested that I could have treated the giardia successfully in Seiad Valley and my that body is still recovering, made more difficult by the fact that I continued hiking. The doctor also suggested that I could have an illness that wasn't found on the specific tests he ran or that the tests returned a false-negative. I've scheduled a follow-up with my naturopath here in Seattle, but at this point I'm not expecting that she'll find anything conclusive. Maybe she'll recommend an expensive and out-of-pocket panel that will show an overabundance of some bacteria in my gut. Who knows.

Besides what I've already mentioned, the only update I can give is that reintegration into city life has been difficult and my feelings about leaving the PCT are complicated. I feel healthy even though my bowels do not and I'm doing my best to recognize and release any shame that I'm feeling about not finishing the PCT. I'm looking forward to never having to eat a Snickers again and I'm excited to provide trail magic for some of my hiker friends as they pass through Washington State.

Thank you all for following me on this journey.

Until next time,

GlitteRob


Thursday, August 14, 2014

The end... For now!

I'm ill and my body needs more rest. I've decided to fly back to Seattle. I've given this hike my best and it's time for me to go back to Seattle and heal my mind and body. I'm proud of what I've done and it has been a really difficult decision for me to leave the trail.

I want to say goodbye to all of my badass hiker buddies and THANK YOU to everyone who read my blog and supported me along this journey. I especially want to thank my dad for his constant encouragement. 

Farewell for now PCT.


Also, I plan on writing a longer post about my decision to take an extended break from the PCT, as well as my readjustment to city life, just as soon as I have enough energy.

Monday, August 4, 2014

PCT Days 119-125: Ashland to... Ashland

Days 119-121
Zero days

I'm up as the sun peaks into my window over interstate 5. I eat as much as I can at the motel's continental breakfast before jumping in the car with Strawberry, Unicorn, and their parents for the 8 hour drive back to Seattle.

I've decided to go home after all, but only for a few days. I need some rest and a healthy dose of love from my family in Seattle. On the drive I buy a plane ticket from Seattle back to Ashland/Medford, just to have my plan set in stone.

Thank you Strawberry, Unicorn, and family for your generosity and the snacks on the way back to Seattle!


I arrived home in the evening and immediately went to a going away picnic for my friend Stand who is moving to Norway in a few days. I knew a bunch of people at the picnic and it was incredible, and a little overwhelming, to see so many familiar faces.


Seattle must have known I was coming because the PCT made the headline in the Seattle Times! I met the guy they wrote about (I think his name is Stringbean) when I was hiking with my dad. In fact, my dad hitched back to his car with this guy's support crew!


My visit was absolutely perfect. I spent tons of quality time with my friends and even went paddle boarding with my guy. Speaking of paddle boarding, I managed to get my iPhone wet. Oops! Hopefully this doesn't affect the quality of my pictures in the future.


Thank you everyone for your love, support, pizza, and help in getting me ready to go back to the trail. I am especially thankful for my guy, Ethan, for taking so much time to help me when I was overwhelmed with town chores. 

Thank you Ethman for your patience and care, for helping me shop, and for fixing both my tent and backpack. You're the BEST!


Day 122
Miles 1727-1729

Ethan walks me the bus stop bright and early as I start my trip back to Ashland. I take the bus to the train, the train to the airport and a little plane to Medford. I hop off the plane, eager to meet Moxie and T-Rose in Ashland, and wait for my backpack in baggage claim. I wait 45 minutes and watch the last person walk away from the airport's only baggage carousel. Um... where's my bag?

The woman at the Alaska counter tells me that my bag was sent to Portland, but not to worry because it's on the next flight and they'll happily fedex it to my address. I give my best hiker trash smile and explain that I'm essentially homeless and everything of value that I own is in that pack. She asks if I know anyone in town or if there is anywhere I can go. I explain that I'm out here alone, without a hotel, and I can't go anywhere without my backpack.

After some discussion and genuine effort on her part, she gets my bag on a flight that will arrive at 5pm, just 5 hours after it was originally expected. Cool, I think, I'll just hang out in the airport until then. Luckily, the Medford airport is air-conditioned and it feels pretty luxurious compared to what I'm used to.


My friends decide to wait a few more hours for me and it's not long until we're all reunited in Ashland. I haven't seen T-Rose since I last left Independence in the Sierras! We're also joined by Mountain Spice, who I met way back in Warner Springs around mile 100.


Since we got such a late start we only hike a little over a mile before stopping to camp in a big open field under a giant blue sky. 


I'm still feeling a bit off physically, but it feels good to be back on trail. Canada here I come!!

Day 123
Miles 1729-1750

I wake up and realize that everything around me is wet. The sky is clear so it must be from the morning dew. I cowboy camped last night next to T-Rose and Mountain Spice. I put on my glasses and see that T-Rose is already packing up her things. Maybe I didn't get enough sleep while I was in Seattle, but I'm completely exhausted. What time is it? Does hiking with other people mean that I'm going to have to wake up earlier? Ugh.

The day is wonderfully cool and clear, but I'm totally wiped out. I felt so good yesterday, why am I so exhausted today?


We take our third break of the day by 9am on an outcropping of rocks with a view of Pilot Rock. While we're laughing and eating snacks I hear someone coming down the trail. It's Rocket Llama! 


Rocket Llama says that this is the point in the trail where people "get down to business" and start hiking more miles. We all hike on, but I'm having trouble keeping up. I used to hike faster than these same friends, but now my legs feel heavy and all I can think about is lying down. I trudge on, watching the valleys below, which are blanketed in thick white smoke.


As the afternoon wears on I feel like I need to go back to sleep. T-Rose stays behind with me and we both nap for an hour in the shade. I wake up feeling just as exhausted as before, but I know that I need to keep moving. My diarrhea is back, but I try not to think about it as I count my steps, "one, two, three, one, two, three."


Twenty two miles later we find a spot to end our day. We cowboy camp near a road with our friend Penguin and I set up my groundsheet under a big tree. Hopefully this tree will help keep the dew off of my bag. I'm so tired.

Day 124
Miles 1750-1751

I wake up, once again exhausted and reluctant to hike. There's a cafe down the road and I suggest that we have breakfast before moving on. T-Rose and Mountain Spice join me and we hitch down to the cafe with a firefighter stationed at a fire camp in the area.


I eat a burrito hoping that the calories will give me an energy boost. My stomach starts gurgling half way through the meal and I have to leave the table. My diarrhea is back with a vengeance. Booooo.

After breakfast we decide to walk across a dry lake bed instead of taking the road back to the trailhead. The ground is squishy and smells like goose poop.


Back on trail, T-Rose and I walk together for a few minutes before I start to feel nauseous. She suggests we hitch back to town and see a doctor. I don't want to turn around and we hike for another minute before I start sweating from the nausea. "OK," I say and we turn around and walk back to the road.

A very nice couple picks us up within a few minutes and offers to drive us to the hospital in Ashland. Since I don't have a primary care doctor they have to admit me through the emergency department.


It feels wrong to lay in a hospital bed and the nurses treat me like a sick person. I don't feel sick, I'm just nauseous and I've had diarrhea for what feels like forever. 

Dr. Jones grimaces when I tell him how long I've had diarrhea. He's concerned that the giardia medication didn't work and he thinks continuing with this level of physical exertion isn't helping either. He suggests I stop hiking, rest my body, and let them test me for giardia and other parasites.

I can't stop hiking. I mean, I can take a break, but I've already quit once and I didn't come all of the way back to the trail just to quit again. It's going to take at least 4-5 days to get the test results back and I tell Dr. Jones that I'll be back on trail by then. 

T-Rose and I get a motel room in town and I take a 3 hour nap in the afternoon. T-Rose is adamant that I walk to Canada and her enthusiasm is contagious. After my nap we spend the rest of our night eating and playing Jenga before walking back to the motel.


Day 125
Zero day

I'm up early to drop a sample off at the hospital. I'm still exhausted and the walk from the bus stop to the hospital door leaves me feeling weak. Today I feel helpless. I want to walk to Canada so badly, but feeling like I'm at 10% of my normal energy makes the idea seem nearly impossible. I'm annoyed at being sick, I'm annoyed at feeling weak, and I would give anything to have my old energy back.

It does feel great to be back around T-Rose. We spend out afternoon eating and resupplying, exchanging trail gossip and laughing at what we've been through already.


Tomorrow T-Rose and I are planning on spending the day hitch hiking from Ashland to Crater Lake. We'll be skipping some trail miles for various reasons (road access, fire danger, etc), but I'm genuinely excited to give this hiking thing another shot. For now though, I'm going to sleep until I can't sleep any more. 

Saturday, July 26, 2014

PCT Days 112-118: Etna to Ashland

Day 112
Miles 1606-1624

I'm hung over from the threes beers I had last night. Moxie is up at 6am and headed out to breakfast with the gang, but I stay in bed and pull the covers to my chin. This motel bed is too comfortable to leave at 7am. I sleep another hour, take a long shower, then pack my bag and walk go the local espresso place.

I'm back on the trail by 10am and arrive at the trailhead at the same time as 10 other hikers. I know them all, but that's a lot of hikers to follow up the trail so I slow my pace and fall a comfortable distance behind.

I stop for lunch at Fischer Lake, jumping in after eating my meal of meat, cheese, and bagel. The lake is filled with these cute little salamander tadpole things. I'm not sure exactly what they are, but they play along the shoreline twisting and rolling in the water.


Further up the trail I find a nice camping spot, secluded on a high ridge. From inside my tent I can see both east and west into the surrounding valleys. I sit and watch the sunset from inside my comfortable tent.




Day 113
Miles 1624-1644

I wake up as the sun rises and have enough energy to take this picture, sticking my arm outside of my tent, before falling back asleep.


It's a cloudy day. I get lost on a side trail looking for a spring and spend 45 minutes trying to get back to the trail. I get back to the trail soaked in sweat and covered in bugs and plant debris from bushwhacking up a large hill. I sit for a minute to calm down and catch my breath before sucking it up and moving on.


There are many long stretches today without water, but the water I do find is mostly cold, clean water coming straight from a hillside. Sometimes they are piped springs and sometimes people set up little systems like this leaf/funnel to make getting water a bit easier.


There was a 40% chance of rain yesterday and a 20% chance today, but it stays dry all day despite the massive clouds rolling by.


The sunset tonight looks like a painting. It's difficult to sit and enjoy the view as I'm having a great deal of intestinal discomfort, but I stay long enough to take a photo before finishing the last mile or so to camp. I've been having stomach issues for a few days now, but today it's getting much worse. Ugh.


Day 114
Miles 1644- 1662

Today I drop from 7,000 feet in elevation to less than 1,500 feet. The trip into and out of Seiad Valley is known for being hot, humid, and long. I'm so close to Oregon and it feels like California is refusing to let go of me. 


Down I go, into the valley. Up top the air is cool and there's a strong breeze, but when the heat hits towards the bottom, it hits hard. Within an hour of starting the descent it feels like the temperature has skyrocketed. The air is sticky and still as I reach the bottom of the valley.


It's a six mile road walk from the bottom of the valley tot he town of Seid Valley. I walk four miles on the asphalt, the temperature surpassing 100. I start to feel dizzy before a nice woman pulls over and asks if I need a ride. I say yes without even really considering it and she drives me the last 2 miles into town.

Everyone is here, lounging under the trees trying to escape the sun. I feel dehydrated and weak.


The post office, grocery store, and restaurant all exist in the same building here in Seiad Valley. I eat  a lunch of fries and Pepsi as I'm still feeling off physically and can't eat much else, then I resupply at the store.

The store is filled with stickers and t-shirts with the emblem of the State of Jefferson. Apparently a few counties in southern Oregon and northern Califirnia have tried to form their own state unsuccessfully, but the dream still lives here in Seiad Valley.


I'm exhausted and my body hurts, so I set up camp in the field next to Princess and Mr Sandals. I chat with everyone for a while before crawling into my tent and trying to sleep.

Day 115
Miles 1662-1677

It's 2am and I'm wide awake. My insides are gurgling and I toss and turn in the uncomfortable heat. I've been denying it for a few days, but I can't deny it any longer; I have giardia. Or at least I have some stomach issue beyond the normal hiker-stomach where diarrhea comes and goes. Cramps, inhuman amounts of gas, queasiness, lack of appetite, liquid diarrhea, I toss and turn on my air mattress trying to find a comfortable position that lessens the stomach cramping.

I'm 37 miles from the Oregon border and, honestly, I'm ready to go home. I'm sick and lonely and out of money and patience.

I go to the bathroom, thank god I'm somewhere that has a bathroom, and an hour later I'm still here. Why am I still doing this, I ask myself, hiking alone, sick, spending money that I don't have. I've been hiking for 4 months, almost through the entire state of California, and I'm not having fun anymore.

It's 3:30am and I know the others are planning on getting up at 4 to start the big ascent out of Seiad Valley. I go back to my tent and fall into a hot, restless sleep. 

I wake up with a pounding headache. It's 6:45am and the restaurant opens at 7. Everyone is gone, except for Strawberry, her sister Unicorn, Lighthouse, and Mung. I should get up and eat something.

The cold orange juice is perfect for my pounding head, but when my food arrives I immediately want to vomit. I've never felt so hungry and nauseous at the same time. I eat my french toast and my bacon. I try to eat the eggs, but I just can't. My stomach gurgles and I have to find a bathroom. I'm still thinking about leaving the PCT. 

I talk to Strawberry in front of the restaurant. Her family is picking her and her sister up in Ashland and driving them home to Seattle. They would love to give me a ride. Maybe we could just hitch to Ashland from here and skip the next 65 miles.

No, I think, I need to make it to the Oregon/Washington border. That way, if I decide to leave the trail, at least I'll have completed the PCT in California. I tell myself that I'll hike for at least a few more days. I take the giardia medication I've been carrying.

The three of us hike out together. I still feel light headed and we decide to take a road walk that has more water and cuts the climb in half. Two miles into the road walk my stomach starts cramping again. I sit down on the side of the road and lay back on my pack. 

Thirty minutes later, still on the ground, we hear a car driving up the road. Strawberry jumps up and sticks out her thumb. A middle-aged woman pulls over, rolls down her window, "Really?" she asks. I laugh uncomfortably, "could you give us a ride to the trail?"
"I've never seen PCT hikers hitch to the trail from here, but if you don't want to walk I'll give you a ride."
We thank her and get in the car feeling a bit embarrassed by her comment. The driver ends up being a very sweet lady with long silver hair and she apologizes for being rude as she drives us up the bumpy road. She's had a tough day and I can sympathize.

The sweet lady drives Strawberry, Unicorn, and I to a trailhead where the road meets back up with the trail. It's quiet and shady, so I sit under a big pine tree. My head hurts again.


Princess hikes onto the road a few minutes later after finishing the big climb in 6 hours. I skipped 15 miles of the PCT and Princess teases me for hitching, as do Mr Sandals and Firecracker. I feel guilty. I think about finding a way back down to the valley so I can hike the climb tomorrow and do this without gaps, but my head and stomach disagree. I just need to lay down for a while.

Eventually everyone leaves the road to hike a few more miles before setting up camp. I feel like all my energy has been zapped out of me. I've barely eaten today so I set up my tent and cook myself dinner.

Lighthouse and Mung hike into my camp as I'm tossing and turning on my mattress. I don't get up to say hello because my head is still pounding and I hope they'll just keep hiking and leave me alone.

"Glitter?" Lighthouse asks tentatively.
 I sit up and I can feel the blood pounding in my head, behind my eyes. "Yep."
"How's it going?"
I tell him the truth.
"Do you always hike alone" he asks.
"Um, sort of I guess. I loosely hike around the same people, but most of the time I'm alone."
"Do you enjoy it?" Why is he asking me this questions?
"I mean, I guess I enjoy it sometimes."
"Oh, OK, I was just wondering."

Like the others, they walk out of camp to hike a few more miles. I sit in my tent thinking about what just happened. Do I really like being alone as much as I made it sound? No. Maybe part of the reason that going home is so attractive is that I feel like I'm lacking real community out here. I've met lots of wonderful people, but I still feel very alone.

I take two Benedryl to help me sleep and stare at the sky waiting for them to take effect. I still think I'd like to go home. I hear a car pull up to the camp site.

"Do you want a beer?" Someone shouts from the window. I sit up, head still pulsing although a little less intense now. I yell, "if you were to ask me that question any of the one hundred and fourteen days of this trip before today I would probably start to cry and tell you that you're an angel, but right now I'm sick and that just sounds like death." The couple in the car laugh and a woman gets out from the passenger side door. "Here," she says and hands me a bottle of Bud Light Lime, "save it for later."

The couple introduce themselves as Chelsea and Cory; they're out here from Ashland on a day hike. They ask me about my trip and how I'm feeling now. I have nothing to lose, so I tell them the truth.

"An hour ago I was hoping that someone would drive up that road and give me a ride to Ashland so I could recover in a real bed. I didn't think it was possible, but here you are. Now that you're here though and I could just ask you, I'm realizing that I don't want to hitch into Ashland. I have everything I need right here: water, food, and medicine. And I want to hike into Oregon. I've come almost 1700 miles to get here and Oregon is so close."

She laughs, maybe because I have verbal diarrhea and I don't know her or maybe because she totally gets it. "OK, we won't even offer to take you into town. You can do this. You're so close."

Chelsea and Cory- If you're reading this (I gave you my blog so I hope you are) THANK YOU for the encouragement. I'm going to drink this lime soda at the California/Oregon border and it's going to be delicious, but it was really your friendliness and encouragement that meant so much to me. It's funny what a tiny bit of kindness and warmth can do for someone else's day.


The Benedryl finally takes effect and I drift off to sleep while the sun is still shining.

Day 116
Miles 1677-1714

I wake up in a Benedryl induced haze and pack my things. I start walking slowly and pass Strawberry and Unicorn in a few miles. I keep walking, but I feel like a zombie. I have no energy, no appetite, and I've already gone to the bathroom 4 times by 10am.

I manage to walk 10 miles, 15 miles, 20 miles and my feet don't hurt. What's up with that? I force myself to eat every half an hour, but on two occasions I overdo it and vomit on the side of the trail. There's a storm coming in and I can see lightning in the distance.

As I get close to the border, California makes a few last attempts to maintain its grasp on me. It starts to rain and lightning strikes the forest in front of me. I see a fire about a mile off of the trail. I puke again.


I come around a corner and there it is, the Oregon/California border. It's still raining and I have to go to the bathroom, so I snap a quick picture and scribble something in the trail register before running off into the woods.



I keep hiking until I reach a high ridge and have cell service. I call my dad to ask him to help me find a motel in Ashland. Everything seems to be booked because it's going to be the weekend and they have a Shakespeare festival going on. I get his voicemail. I leave a vague message and ask him to call me back. It starts to rain again so I move on and decide to camp once I get better cell signal.


I leave my phone on, constantly checking to see if I have any signal. I check at one point and see that I've received a flood of text messages and voicemails from the past few days, but I can't figure out when I passed a spot with a clear signal. I see that my dad left me a voicemail. He's worried. Damn, I think, now I really need to find cell signal tonight.

As I hike I see 6 more fires. Wow! Oregon is burning.


I hike and hike and hike. I pass the Germans, the Bubbies, and even Lighthouse and Mung. It's getting dark and I still have no signal. I have to hike until I get signal. I don't want my dad worrying all night. 

Finally, 37 miles into the craziest day of the entire trail I get some cell signal. It's 11pm and I throw my backpack down, set up my tent, and quickly jump inside. My dad answers on the first ring.

Day 117
Miles 1714-1727

I wake up today and know that it's my last day on trail. I've hit a wall and I'm ready to go back to Seattle to recover. I feel good about it. I came out here for the experience and an experience is what I found. I feel like this journey has come to a natural end and there is no need to prolong it.

A few miles into the day I stumble on some trail magic and write a goodbye note to my friends behind me.


I make it to Ashland a few hours later, exhausted and sick, and check into my motel room. Sleep.

In the evening I meet Moxie and her mom for dinner at the brewery in town. My appetite seems to be slowly coming back and I am able to eat an entire meal. That's a good sign, maybe the giardia medication is working after all.

Day 118
The end?

Ashland is an adorable town and I spend a few hours in the afternoon walking around downtown. I'm feeling nostalgic and a little sad to leave the trail, but I'm still confident about my decision.

In the evening I have dinner with the trail family that I have been with for the last 1,000 miles: the Germans (Princess and Mr Sandals), the Bubbies (Firecracker a and Tidy Camper), and Moxie. There are a few tears, but if think everyone can see that I've made my decision.


After dinner we all get some ice cream, say our goodbyes, and I go back to my motel room. I'm still exhausted, but my diarrhea isn't as bad and I'm HUNGRY. I haven't been this hungry in such a long time I had forgotten what it felt like. 

As I lay in my bed, packed and ready to be picked up by Strawberry and her family in the morning, I start to question leaving the trail for the first time in a few days. Suddenly I feel less confident about my decision. I imagine myself feeling healthy again and wonder, would I have the desire to finish the trail if I had my energy back? 

I think about who would be affected if I change my mind and decide to stay on trail. I write emails to my dad, my supervisors at work, and a few others that I've already told that I'm returning to Seattle, but I don't send the emails yet. Writing to these people is helping me sort through my thoughts.

"Dear Dad,

I've decided to continue hiking. As you can tell, I've hit a wall on the PCT. After being sick this past week it felt impossible to walk back into the heat and climb another mountain alone and tired. I feel like I've reached the complete end of my rope and I'm ready to return to the life I enjoy and the people I love in Seattle. 

As I sit here though, packed and ready to leave, I feel the desire returning. I've wanted to do this for a long time and, although I'm lonely and uncomfortable right now, I know that nothing is permanent. I think I need to continue on this journey despite my temporary, albeit intense, discomfort. I want to make it to Canada.

I think the giardia medication worked, as last night I could eat a large meal and today I had a semi-normal BM. Too much information, I know, but I'm starting to feel healthier and that is SUCH a good thing.

I love you and thank you for your constant love and support.

-Rob"

I call one of my best friends then my boyfriend and they are supportive of my decision. I take a deep breath, go back into my email account, and send the emails I've written to my friends and family. I'm hiking to Canada. I feel giddy and excited, but my body is still exhausted and I fall asleep with my phone still in my hand.

Friday, July 18, 2014

PCT Days 104-111: Shasta City to Etna

Day 104
Zero Day

My dad pulls into Ash Camp at 8am sharp in a shiny red rental car. I pack up, say goodbye to Medicine Man, and happily jump in the oh-so-clean passenger seat. Off for a whole day! Yippee!

First thing- errands. We stop at the grocery store (9 days is a lot of food), post office (where we pick up Moxie, Acorn and Estero trying to hitch), and three different outfitter stores in town (why doesn't anyone carry 100% deet). 

I got new shoes today! Good thing too, my feet were starting to poke through the old ones I got in Kennedy Meadows. Almost 800 miles on these babies!


Sometimes zero days are more work than relaxation, but today is a perfect zero day. I finish all my town chores by 2pm and even get espresso. Glitter looooooves espresso!

I'm really excited to hike with GlitterPop tomorrow. We're planning on hiking 13 miles or so and camping at a river. He'll turn around and hike back out the next day while I continue on my 9-day stretch to Ashland.

Day 105
Miles 1476-1490

Wake up, shower, pack, Burger King, Subway, coffee, we are at the trailhead by 9:30am. It's another hot, humid day. I let GlitterPop take the lead. Thirteen miles sounds like half a day to me, but dad is a bit nervous.


When I was a kid I hated hiking. My dad took my brothers and I on backpacking trips every year and he always had to force me to go. 
"My backpack is too heavy."
"I'm tired."
"How much further?"
I thought he was a slave driver. 
"Stop complaining."
"Keep walking."
"It's just around the corner," he'd say. 
I knew he was lying. It's not just around the corner and this isn't fair and everything sucks. 

Now that I'm addicted to hiking and he's getting older, the tables have turned. He thinks it's too hot and wants to take a break. "How much further," he asks. I smile, "it's just around the corner."

We arrive at camp by 4:30pm. We're planning on camping near a beautiful river with a perfect swimming hole, but GlitterPop has a different idea. 

He's not excited about hiking the same hot, humid miles tomorrow. He's thinking about trying to hitch back to his car instead. I imagine spending another night in a motel room and I happily encourage him. He quickly finds some other folks at the trailhead and asks for a ride.

GlitterPop picks me up an hour later, plus two other hikers who are injured and want to go into Shasta early. I wasn't expecting this trip back to Shasta, but I can't complain about another round of beer and a soft bed.

We get back to Shasta by the early evening, chow down on some pizza at a local pizza place, and head to a hotel to crash.


Day 106
Miles 1490-1512

This morning GlitterPop helps me slack-pack the last 16 miles to Interstate 5. Slack-packing is when you have someone else take your gear to the next stop, allowing you to hike with only a day pack and some snacks. 

I dump all of my gear into the back seat of the rental car and seperate out what I need for the afternoon. My pack weighs about 5 pounds today, where as yesterday it weighed close to 40 pounds with my 9 days of food.

More beautiful views of Shasta this afternoon-

The 16 miles fly by and soon I see my dad and Moxie in the rental car pulling up at the interstate. They pick me up and we  eat at an awesome brewery before GlitterPop drops us back off at the trailhead. 

A little tipsy, and maybe a little more sane then yesterday, I ask myself why I'm trying to carry out 9 days of food. What am I trying to prove? With Moxie's encouragement I reduce my food to 5 days and send the regs back with my dad.

Thank you GlitterPop for taking the time to visit me, for your patience, for your kindness to me and my fellow hikers, and for doing my stinky laundry while I rested!

Back on trail Moxie and I hike under Castle Crags. Epic!


We camp 6 miles from I-5, next to two brothers named Gas Pedal and Firestarter. I love these guys! I first met them in Sierra City and haven't seen them again until now. The four of us cook our dinners together, joking about life and  hiking and love before heading to bed.

Day 107
Miles 1512-1531

There's a huge climb first thing this morning. It's hot and the sun is burning me, but there are more views of Castle Crags as we ascend.


Today is one of those long, hot, seemingly endless days. Must. Take. Nap.



After setting up camp for the night, Moxie and I talk while eating and get onto the topic of weight loss. I mention in passing that I've lost 25% of my body weight, thinking she already knew, and she stops eating her food. "Say what," she says.

I thought I would stop losing weight when my body came to a natural equilibrium. I feel like I eat as much and as often as I like, but maybe it's not enough? Maybe Moxie is right and I'll feel better if I eat more. Can I eat more? 

Here's what I ate today-
- 2 packs of Carnation Instant Breakfast
- 1 cup granola
- 2 Kind bars
- 1 tortilla
- 1/4 pack of pepperoni (1/8lb)
- 2 string cheese
- Peanut m&ms
- 2 packs ramen
- 1oz Olive oil packet
Total calories: About 2,500

Oh shit, I think, I'm starving myself! I thought I was consuming more calories than that, but I guess I haven't been paying enough attention. Note to self: EAT MORE FOOD.

Day 108
Miles 1531-1552

A strong breeze blows this morning, moving massive puffy cloudy across the sky. The clouds move quickly in these mountains. I've gone up in elevation the last two days and the escape from the humidity is a huge relief. 

The trail stays high all day, traversing ridges with views of Mt Shasta and an expansive valley to the north.


I stop for lunch at Deadfall lake. Approaching the lake I notice a warm, sandy shore and crystal clear waters. Of course I have to jump in. There's nothing quite like the feeling I get swimming in a lake with no one else around. The water is cool, not cold, and I swim for a few minutes before getting out and lounging in the sun.


I hike a few miles further into a flat, wooded area where I feel the presence of bears. I know that sounds crazy, but I keep thinking, "if I was a bear this is where I would live." I sing a song to alert the bears of my presence. It's a made up song to the tune of Don't Cry for me Argentina and I feel confident that the noise, or maybe just my awful pitch, will scare away any bears.  

Another great day on the PCT. My feet may be aching and I'm definitely short on food, but I'm clean and happy.

Day 109
Miles 1552-1572

It's light out as I pack up my tent. A bunch of other hikers camped near me last night, but only Gas Pedal and Firestarter are still in camp as I pack up my tent and move on. 

Gas Pedal and Firestarter are from Huntington Beach and they're hiking a few sections over a two month period. I'm a little jealous, I wish my brothers could hike with me!

I warm up on the first few miles, it has been wonderfully chilly the last few days. After getting warm I stop to stretch and eat my breakfast near a small lake.


I finish breakfast and walk slowly, sitting to let my body rest as often as possible.


In the middle of the day I cross a highway and enter the Trinity-Alps Wilderness. After ascending a few more hills I get my first glimpse of the Trinity Alps.


Later in the day I come upon this young deer about 200 feet before camp. He stands in front of me on the trail just staring and waiting to see what I'll do. I take some pictures as he walks ahead of me, leading me into camp.


Day 110
Miles 1572-1597

I wake up earlier than usual and can't get back to sleep, so I let the air out of my sleeping pad at 6:30. The day flys by; my feet feel good, I feel good, and the trail in this section is endlessly beautiful.


The Trinity-Alps have not disappointed; rugged peaks, picturesque lakes, wildlife all around, and springs on every hillside. I'm in love with fresh, cold, unfiltered spring water.


With my extra time I decide to climb a few more miles closer to Etna. I've forgotten how much further you can hike if you leave camp before 8am!


I find a secluded spot on top of a ridge before the final 9-mile descent into Etna. A few other hikers roll in after I have my tent set up, including a hiker named Bomber and his brother Siesta. 

Bomber asks if I'm Glitter and says that he has heard stories about me from his brother. I recognize Siesta's face, but I can't remember where I've met him before. Siesta invites me to breakfast and beer in Etna tomorrow (there is a restaurant AND a brewery) and I agree in hopes that I'll eventually be able to remember how I know him. 

Oh yeah, the sunset is gorgeous from my tent tonight. 


Day 111
Miles 1597-1606

I'm up before anyone else in camp. I only have a piece of cheese and a Snickers bar to get me into town. All I can think about is food. 

I pass the 1600 mile mark and stop to eat some cheese. I can't believe I only have 1,060 miles left before I reach Canada. How in the world have I walked this far? Am I crazy? Yes, I think, I'm a little crazy for doing this. 


I get to the trailhead and get a hitch in to town with a few hikers, including Bomber and Siesta. We eat breakfast together at a cute little diner then walk across the street to get a shake. I don't want a shake, I could barely eat my breakfast, but I just think about the calories and imagine the milk as fuel.

Oh! I remember now. I met Siesta in Bishop.

In the afternoon I do my resupply shopping. I'm so glad I gave up on that 9-day stretch idea. Why carry 9 days of food when you could carry 3? Fewer days of food means that I can carry less weight overall with more food (i.e. calories) for each day.

I usually spend around $10 for each day of resupply, but today I spend $80 for three days. I'm going to try and eat close to 5,000 calories every day. We'll see how it goes.

On my way to the store I see this deer nursing her babies in the road. I yell, "GET OFF THE ROAD" and wave my arms until they run into the forest.


Moxie and I walk to the brewery in the evening and have dinner with tons of other hikers including the Germans, the Bubbies, and Tortuga, all who I haven't seen in a while. Great day.

Only a few days until I reach Oregon! Next time you hear from me I'll be in a different state!