PCT Days 73-82

Day 73

Miles 1018-1028

I wake up at Kennedy Meadows North feeling ready to get back on trail, but I have a lot of packing still to complete. I have to get rid of my bear canister, organize four days of food, and eat breakfast before I can pack my backpack. The big group of us from last night gather again for breakfast in the restaurant below the dorms. I feel more than a little hung over from last night's Franzia binge and I have eggs and sausage and toast and pancakes and juice. I feel a bit better.

After packing my things and eating a soft serve ice cream from the store, I leave the dorms with the Germans and start walking the mile to the main highway. On our way, a guy drives by and rolls down his window.

"I can take one of you" he says excitedly.

"OK, I'll go with you," I reply.

He jumps out of his BMW in the middle of the road, running around to make room for my pack. Right before he opens the door he stops and looks up at me.

"The one down side is that, if I pick you up, I might not get to pick up the cute girl down the road."

"OK," I say, "that's cool."

He runs back around the car, gets back inside, and drives away. The Germans and I laugh; people are so weird. I think the cute girl he was referring to is Moxie. I can't wait to tell her this story.

We get to the main highway and find Solitude trying to hitch. We join him and I sit in the gravel on the side of the road. The day is hot and I reach for my hat. Oh shit, I left my hat a mile back in the dorms. I consider leaving it, but I can't. It's one of Ethan's favorite hats and I begged him to let me take it on the PCT. I start walking back to the resort, wondering if the rest of the gang will get a hitch before I return. 

I get back to the resort, find my hat, and ask a family in a big truck if I can ride in their truck bed to the main highway. They agree and we bump down the one lane road towards the highway. When I get there the others are gone, probably already back on trail at Sonora Pass. 

I stick out my thumb, expecting to be here for a while, but the second car that passes me pulls over. The driver smiles, gives me a thumbs up, and waves me over. He's from Ireland and in San Francisco on business, but he's driving out to Bishop today to ride his bike and do some rock climbing. He tells me about biking through the Pyrenees in Europe while we drive up to the pass. 

Back on trail, I call Ethan to say hello and call my dad to wish him a happy Father's Day.Then  I start up the trail, passing a sweet couple that ask about the PCT, and resting at the top of a dry, volcanic mountain. The landscape is changing so quickly. It's more dry, more rocky, and less forested than I've seen in the past few weeks.

After cresting the mountain, the trail drops several thousand feet into a wooded valley. The trail is covered in patches of snow and I loose the path over and over again. I get frustrated and side step directly down the mountain. When I get to the bottom I start to feel nauseous. Maybe I shouldn't have had so much wine last night. 

I pass the Germans at seven miles in, camping early to rest Princess's hurting tendons, and find Solitude right off the trail at mile 10. I decide to stop here, it's nice to have an easy day right after town and I still feel sick to my stomach. I set up my tent in a big campsite a few hundred yards from Solitude and I spend the rest of the evening relaxing and starting in on those five bags of chips.

Day 74

Miles 1028-1055

I'm packed and ready to hike by 6am and I can see that Solitude has already left. The trail starts climbing up the side of the canyon and scattered everywhere are the most beautiful flowers (or maybe it's a fungus). I think I heard someone call them snow flowers, but I'm not sure.

Two hikers race past me, introducing themselves quickly. Go-Go Gadget and Salty Snack are their names and man do they hike quickly. 

After reaching the top of the canyon, the trail flattens out and traverses long, low hills with the occasional lake and waterfall. It's so beautiful! 

Another day with 15 miles before lunch, I'm loving this gentle terrain. 

As I continue the hike through a wet valley, someone pops out of a bush and unintentionally scares the bejesus out of me. He eventually catches up, introduces himself as Mowgli, and launches into a story about wanting to buy a motorcycle. He's only hiking a few more days before leaving the PCT for good and he's considering riding a motorcycle from Tahoe back home to Colorado. He doesn't know how to ride a motorcycle nor does he have a motorcycle license, but he does have good health insurance so I encourage him to take a chance.

Mowgli and I hike together on and off for the next few hours over rolling hills and scattered forests. I can't believe this section is so scenic and beautiful. I enjoyed the high sierras, everyone's favorite, but this section feels like paradise.

So many great views!

I eventually pass Moxie and the Bubbies as we climb to Ebbetts Pass. Once at the pass, there's a backup of hikers including Washpot and Butters sitting at the road. It's only five more miles until the next campsite, so I sit for a moment before I hurry off the pass and down the mountain towards camp.

I get to camp after Solitude, Go-Go and Salty Snack and I pick out my campsite. It looks like this campsite is the last one for a while and more hikers start slowly walking in: Butters, Washpot, Mowgli, Midway, Half and Half, and Quinoa. They all set up their tents and a few of us gather around Go-Go's site, laughing, cooking our dinners, and drinking some of the wine I brought for this section. 

Another big day tomorrow, so I'm thankful that the wine makes me tired. I crawl into my tent while the sun still shines and fall immediately into a deep, restful sleep.

Day 75

Miles 1055-1083

It's the summer solstice, happy Hike Naked Day!

I walk out of camp alone this morning, after Solitude, but before all the others. Up a big mountain, down into a valley, my feet glide alone the trail. With a beautiful trail and no major discomfort, this is what I call float walking. 

It's a weekend and there are day hikers around every corner. This section of trail seems really accessible and I cross gravel and paved roads on my way to the next pass, Carson Pass. As I get close to the pass, also the location of a major mountain road, I meet all sorts of people coming up the trail. Parents with children take up the whole path and couples both in and out of shape hike up the mountain.

When I arrive at Carson Pass I see a visitors center bustling with tourists and volunteers. The volunteers have name badges with the title "Volunteer Docent" and one asks of I'm a thru-hiker. I confirm that I am and she motions to a table behind her, "we have fruit and cupcakes and I'll fill up your water bottle." She shows me to a chair and tells me that they have a scale as well, if I'd like to weigh myself.

It all seems so strange and it takes me a few minutes to shake off my hiker brain and realize what's going on. After hiking alone for an afternoon, trail magic can be such a surprise. I finally weigh myself (160, but that can't be right, I started at 200lbs), grab an orange, and take a seat. I sign the register and put a piece of the juicy orange into my mouth. Yum! Fruit!

In comes Go-Go, Salty, Mowgli, and Butters, but they're all eager to continue hiking. They want to get as close to Tahoe as possible tonight so they'll have a short day tomorrow. Mowgli asks if I want to split a room with him, Go-Go and Salty in Tahoe. I do and we all pack up and cross the road together, waving goodbye to the friendly docents who loaded us up with fruit and calories.

I hike out of Carson Pass with Salty Snack. After talking about the basics, Iike where we're from, we realize that we both went to The Ohio State University at the same time. In fact, she lived a couple of blocks from the Pier One where I worked. Small world! 

We hike for a few more hours and chose a campsite in a large meadow FILLED with mosquitos. They are everywhere! I swat four off of Go-Go while brushing a few more off of my neck. They're biting my face! My hands! Baaaaaaaaah! Mosquitos are making me crazy! 

I set up my tent as quickly as possible to avoid the mosquitos. Once out if danger, I start to feel excited once again. I'm so excited to get to Tahoe tomorrow, another zero day!

Day 76

Miles 1083-1092

Too drunk on food to write much, let me just say that Tahoe is wonderful. Our hotel has an all you can eat buffet and they don't kick us out after a few hours.

I see the Germans, the Bubbies, and Moxie at dinner and we form one big table with Mowgli, Salty, and Go-Go. There's a mix up with the beer and we end up with an extra free pitcher of a delicious local brew.

Mowgli and I decide to test our luck at the penny slots and he wins $250 after a few minutes. I play a Dolly Parton machine and end the night up 45 cents, not too bad!

So. Much. Food. Can't. Think.

Day 77

Zero Day

We all wake up at 7, thru hiker curse, and Mowgli hands me a $100 bill. He asks if I'll pick up Starbucks from downstairs and I happily comply. Free coffee!

While drinking my coffee, Go-Go mentions that he has some glittery nail polish and I let him paint one of my toenails.

Errand time- haircut, groceries, food, shower, food.

At some point Go-Go convinces the front desk to give us a room upgrade, something about a non-functioning bathroom fan, and they move us to a suite on the 15th floor. Salty decides to hike out today, but a new hiker named Whistle comes to take her place. Bye Salty! It was great meeting you and I hope to see you again, I can tell that we're kindred spirits!

Go-Go, Whistle and I decide to go to the buffet, but when we try to leave the new room the door won't budge. What in the world? We all try the door to no avail, it's stuck. I call the front desk and they call an engineer. It takes 40 minutes, but they eventually get the door to open. Go-Go quickly works his magical powers of persuasion and scores us free passes to the buffet, including lobster.

Drunk on gluttony once again, I stbke back to the room. Mowgli has a few friends staying in the room tonight and they're a little rowdy, but I don't mind. I'm so full and happy and satisfied that nothing could keep me from falling asleep tonight.

Day 78

Miles 1092-1104

I woke up today feeling ready to leave Tahoe and get back on the trail; what a change from other town stops!

Once we're all awake we walk to breakfast.

I'm tempted to just eat quickly at a Burger King on the way, but I can't resist the pull of this great cafe we found yesterday. Their food is homemade and oh-so-delicious. I order the huevos del Driftwood: medium eggs over tortilla chips with black bean chili, cheese, guacamole, and salsa. I also split a waffle with Go-Go.

After breakfast, Go-Go, Whistle, and I walk back to the room to digest while Mowgli stays at the restaurant to hang out with his friends. At the room I take a 20-minute nap, then soak in the suite's giant bathtub.

Once Mowgli returns we all pile in his buddy's car, run a few errands, and drive back to the trailhead on Highway 50. I feel a little sluggish from the big breakfast, but I'm also excited to be back on the trail. I hike behind Go-Go for a while, knowing that soon he'll race ahead.

After a few miles we arrived at Echo Lake Resort. The PCT goes right through the resort and Go-Go and I couldn't resist the temptation to stop. The front of the store is crowded with people eating shakes and root beer floats. I order a berry milkshake and join some other PCTers at the picnic tables in the sun. I see a few people I know, the big crew with Washpot and Butters, and meet a few new hikers including Handy Andy. 

The trail out of Echo Lake is a consistently gentle grade. It goes up for the first seven miles, then down for 3 more before reaching the outlet of Susie Lake. I start slowing down to look for a campsite and Go-Go decides to keep hiking. 

Goodbye Go-Go! Thank you for your generosity and genuine warmth!

I find a campsite hidden from the trail on top of a small hill. There's only one site, so I set up my tent and start my evening routine. I can see that others are walking by and stopping at a campsite right below my hill. Here's the awesome view from my campsite tonight.

The mosquitos are vicious here as well, so I apply more deet and crawl inside of my tent. I boil water for dinner inside my tent (don't worry, I'm not using my rain fly so there is ventilation) and taste the mushroom noodles I bought in Tahoe. They're flavorless, so I decide to add some flavor and calories by mixing in a handful of broken chips. Muuuuuuuch better!

I love these short days when I get to stop early and take my time eating and getting ready for bed. I'm also excited for a big day tomorrow. Goodnight mosquito friends!

Day 79

Miles 1104-1124

The sun rises in the base of the valley at 6am and light filters into my tent. I usually wake up naturally around 5:30, but today I wake up only when the light hits my face. I turn over and cover my face with my arm. I finally let the air out of my sleeping pad at 7:15, forcing myself to sit up, put in my contacts, and start packing.

Everyone that camped in the large site below me last night is already gone. I start on the trail going up a long ascent, in and out of the patches of evergreens. I see a turkey run across the trail and I reach for my MP3 player. Wait, was that really a turkey? I look to my left and see the bird again, running alongside me  staying 3 feet away to my left. It has beautiful yellow feathers puffed up on it's neck and it struts around trees and bushes to match my speed. Is it a male grouse? Some other type of wild fowl?

I continue climbing for three more miles until I crest Dicks Pass, a mountain range spread out before me on the other side. It looks like I can see 50 miles out, lakes, rivers, peaks, valleys. I sit for a few minutes at the pass and eat two single serving packets of blueberry granola. As I'm packing the trash into my bag and getting ready to start hiking again I see Soapbox hiking with someone I've never met. I introduce myself to Soapbox's friend, his girlfriend out hiking with him for a few days, and I move on just as they are sitting down. I'm feeling pretty OK today and I need to keep moving if I'm going to make 25 miles.

After four more miles I see Choop come out of nowhere and hike up behind me. I haven't seen Choop since Tuolomne, but he's sort of known for coming out of nowhere. He hikes so fast, I say hello as he jogs past me. We start switch backing up a hill, Choop getting further and further ahead of me as the switchbacks get shorter and steeper.

After an hour of following Choop I realize that something is off. I've had this feeling before in Yosemite. Am I on trail? I thought the trail should be going down for a while, not switchbacking up a mountain. I look at my phone and see that at some point today I got off trail. The phone says that the trail is a third of a mile to the southwest, but I look southwest and it's straight down the side of the mountain. Ugh.

I crash through brush and trees, moving slowly downhill as I weave around obstacles on the steep slope. I hate to get lost and leave the trail I'm on, but I feel pretty confident using a GPS and compass. I find the trail right where it should be and sit to think about how in the world I got so lost. It must have been when I started following Choop.

After getting back on the PCT I can feel my adrenaline still pumping. I try to use it to my advantage and increase my speed, but soon I start tripping over rocks and roots. I roll my ankle once, twice, and decide that I need to sit down and calm myself so I find a big rock and sit to eat my lunch. By this time it's already 2:00pm and I've only made it ten miles, obviously not including my extra hike up and down a mountain. I decide that there's no way I can make 25 miles today so I take an extra ten minutes for lunch, resigned to the fact that it will be a shorter day than expected.

After lunch I continue hiking over rolling hills into the Desolation Wilderness. It's a beautiful, but repetitive trail with no big views. The sky starts turning dark as I hike through the late afternoon and I watch it wearily hoping it doesn't start to rain and slow me down even further.

I eventually hit 20 miles and decide to stop for the day. I didn't reach my original goal, but 20 miles is a good day and I'm happy that I made it this far sanely and in one piece. I swat five mosquitos off of my calf, three off my left elbow, and one off my neck as I set up my tent quickly to lessen my contact time with bloodthirsty insects.

As I'm finishing setting up camp I see Soapbox and his lady friend again. She seems to be having a tough time with the hiking pace, and who wouldn't, so they decide to camp next to me. She crawls in the tent while Soapbox and I start a fire and cook our dinners. We talk about the trail and our life at home. He's a really smart, funny, nice guy and I enjoy talking to him as the sun goes down. 

I eventually look at my watch and see that it's past 9:30pm. I yawn and say goodnight to Soapbox. Hopefully tomorrow I'm more willing to get up early than I was today! Today was exhausting!

Day 80

Miles 1124-1127

I wake up a few times during the night to the sound of rain pattering on my tent. When I wake up again at 5:30, the rain is still falling. The storm shouldn't last very long, heck it wasn't even predicted, so I guess this means I get to sleep longer!

I turn over, snooze a few more times, and eat my breakfast while waiting for the rain to stop. It never does. I finally start packing at 8:30 and get out if camp quickly after that. My tent and rainfly are soaked, so I strap them to the top of my pack hoping I can take them out to dry once the sun shines again. Soapbox and his girlfriend are still in their tent as I leave camp and I wish them well on the rest of her visit.

As I start the ascent to Barker Pass the wind begins to pick up. The rain starts blowing horizontally under my umbrella as I crest the pass. I'm uncomfortable, already wet from the waist down, but I feel good. 

When I get to Barker Pass the wind picks up even more and the temperature feels like it's dropping. I hike on quickly, trying to stay warm in my shorts. I'm wearing shorts because they dry much quicker than pants, but this wind is making me second guess that decision. 

There's a road that goes over the pass and, a total surprise, I see that there's a public privy. I've heard of hikers waiting out storms and even sleeping in restrooms, but until now I've never seen the need. Right now though, that cement building looks like heaven. 

I sit in the bathroom for a while and warm up as the storm rages on outside. An hour goes by and I start seeing cars coming in and out of the parking lot, perhaps coming in for a day hike and changing their mind once they see the weather. I start wondering if I could hitch into town from this road. No, that's ridiculous, I'm fine. My tent is wet and it will likely still be damp when I set it up tonight, but that's not a huge deal. 

Then I see some joggers coming off the trail and running towards their car. I change my mind and decide that I do want to hitch into town. Why not? This isn't a contest and I don't have to prove how tough I am by walking cold and wet through a storm. I want to dry my tent and charge my electronics and why shouldn't I?

I flag down the couple, explain my situation, and they happily agree to give me a lift to Tahoe. On the way down the mountain I learn that they're brother and sister, Carl and Renee, and they're originally from Rockford Michigan. My ex-boyfriend's family is from Rockford and it turns out Renee grew up with my ex's brother. Small world!

Carl and Renee drop my off in Tahoe City and I thank them profusely for the hitch. Tahoe city is 45 minutes north of South Lake Tahoe, but still on the lake. It's sunny and beautiful down here and the streets are bustling with tourists in stretch pants and sandles. What a change from an hour ago! I find a motel room and book it to the nearest pizza place.

After lunch I pick up some ice cream at Safeway and go back to my room. I explode my pack on the bed and start pulling out my things to dry.

The trail can be so unpredictable, but today is another example of how the trail provided when I really needed it. I'm broke and these motel rooms aren't cheap, but I'm warm, happy, and excited about the adventures to come.