SHT Day 17 (10/5)

My last day!

I woke up this morning at the Otter Lake Road trailhead, the end of the line. While I didn't have rain on my last two days of hiking, it had rained all night and was still raining when I woke up. I slept in until 10:30, then reluctantly got out of bed to pack my things for the final time this trip.

I decided that, since I had 2 hours before the shuttle would arrive to pick me up, I would walk the extra mile to the new trail terminus. This section isn't technically part of the SHT, but it offers a view in to Canada that feels much more appropriate for the end of the trail than just a gravel parking lot. It's technically the first mile of the Border Route Trail, which follows the Canadian border through the Boundary Waters canoe area.

As I had learned on my last hike, the only way to get more wet than standing naked in the rain is to walk fully clothed through wet, chest height brush. The Border Route Trail isn't very well maintained and within that mile I was completely drenched from head to toe.

It was also too cloudy to see Canada, but that didn't stop me from waving to all those crazy Canadians. Hellooooo Canada!

I still had an hour before the shuttle would arrive to pick me up once I got back to the parking lot. It started raining pretty hard and the thermometer on my compass said that it was 42 degrees outside. Soaking wet and freezing, I put on all of the layers I had and started walking in circles to keep myself warm. By the time the shuttle arrived, I was shivering so hard that the driver had to help me take off my pack. It took me over an hour in the car to feel like I could use my fingers normally again. Maybe the morning soak on the Border Route Trail wasn't the best idea?

My driver, Winn, was a sweet WW2 vet who shuttles hikers to different trailheads once a week. He was very chatty and pointed out every waterfall we passed. As I warmed up, he talked about the war, his late wife's cancer, his diabetes, the history of the area, and the idiocy of the Republican Party. I love this surprisingly liberal state!

Winn's shuttle service has scheduled stops at almost every section of the SHT, so driving from the end of the trail down was really interesting. It was like pressing rewind on my trip and seeing many of the places I had stopped before- Grabd Marais, the lakewalk on Lake Superior, Our Place in Finland, the Mountain Inn in Lutsen, Jimmy's Pizza in Silver Bay, and all of the state parks. I even convinced Winn to stop at the Java Moose for a coffee. What a great way to end my journey up the North Shore.

When I first got to the Otter Lake Road trailhead yesterday, I had met another shuttle driver named Bob. I told him that I couldn't afford to take the shuttle I had booked all the way back to Duluth and I was planning on hitching the last 50 miles. Honestly, I could afford it, it was just way overpriced and I wouldn't pay that much out of principle. Very generously, he offered to pick me up where the shuttle ended and take me to my hotel for half the price. Awesome!

Bob dropped me off at my motel and within 10 minutes I was soaking in the tub.

The last chore of the night was to clean the clothes I'd be wearing on the plane (you're welcome in advance, future flying neighbors) and set out my tent to dry.

Well, that's it! I catch a shuttle to the airport at 4:20 in the morning and I'll be home in Seattle by 2pm. It has been an amazing journey!

Thanks for following me on the SHT!

Rob

I MADE IT (10/3-10/4)

Thursday morning started out perfectly. Being in Grand Marais, I walked over to Java Moose and ordered a latte and an oatmeal. I unknowingly sat in a circle of older men from the community to wait for my drink and I was pleasantly surprised to hear them discussing the government shutdown.

There were about 7 men, including the local sherif, all seemingly from Grand Marais. They were quick to identify as liberals and spent some time making jokes with one another about the state of Texas (one described Texas as the anti-Minnesota) and the GOP. Did I mention I love this town? Old artsy liberals who love the outdoors. Yes and yes.

Back at the hotel, the nice old hippy owner helped me into his Subaru and drove me back to the trail.

Within a few miles I came to this section that had me walk right on the shore of the lake. I thought that the closest I would get was way back at Tettagouche State Park around day 7, so this was a surprise.

It was cloudy and windy, but with jacket on and my latte in hand I couldn't have asked for a better morning walk.

I did forget how draining it is to hike in sand! Ugh.

I've been seeing such a huge variety if mushrooms on this trip, but this one is my favorite. This type seems to grow along the rivers and is always huge. It's hard to tell from this picture, but the cap on this one was bigger than my hand!

I hiked through Judge Magney State Park in the afternoon, which is known for the Brule river and it's many falls.

After the state park, I still had a ways to go and little time to get there. I wish this sign would have been accurate, a sled dog team would have been really helpful.

As I got closer and closer to my campsite, the sun started to set. I've made it a point on this trip to get to camp, set up my tent, and hang my food bag all before the sun sets. On Thursday, my desire to get in a few more miles overtook my fear of being alone, hiking in the dark. I thought I could make it to camp before the sun set, but it started getting dark about 30 minutes before I had predicted.

Between the dwindling light and the leaves covering the ground, I lost the trail several times. I accidentally stepped in a mud pit, soaking both of my feet and totally freaking me out. When I got back on the trail I was practically running, trying to get to my campsite.

It's times like these that I like to sing to myself. It serves to keep my anxiety down and to warn any bears (or monsters) of my presence. The only song I could think of at the moment was by Mariah Carey (thanks MacKay for being funny and getting it stuck in my head) and I sang the one part I know. Well I sort of know it...

I can make it through the rain. I will stand up once again on my own and I know that I'm strong enough to mmm. Everytime I feel afraid, I hold tighter to my mmm. Hmm mmm mmm mmm mmm I will make it through the rain

I must have sang this 50 times until I made it to my campsite on Carlson Pond. Thanks Mariah!

This morning I woke up with awful stomach cramps. I had some major digestive issues and spent the first hour at the latrine. As I started hiking I started feeling worse- sweaty, nauseous, and not at all hungry. This being the last big hiking day, I had no option but to keep moving. 

The last sections if the SHT are, in my opinion, the most difficult. They're not as mountainous, but the trail isn't as well cared for as what I was used to. Several miles involved sloshing through the mud. Yuck.

I did see moose tracks all day on the trail. Look how huge these are!

I came upon an overlook with a name that perfectly described how my stomach was feeling.

And here is the overlook.

I took a break at the top. I love breaks, even when I feel like shit (pun intended).

I hiked to the highest point on the trail today. There was no view, so it was a bit anticlimactic.

I have a feeling it was a bad batch of water that put my stomach in this state, so when I had to refill my bottle and only had this foamy stream as an option, I was disappointed. You can be sure I triple treated this water!

The last section of trail was through an area that had been logged about a decade ago.

Then the moment came. The final trail sign. I mmmaaadddeee It!

Although I'm technically done with the SHT, there is one more mile to hike tomorrow. The guide book says that the new terminus of the trail is a mile up the road at a point called 270 Degree Overlook. I'll hike that tomorrow before I get picked up at noon.

Now, it's time to let my stomach settle.

See y'all soon!

Rob

P.S. As you can see, it neither rained nor snowed either day as predicted. Lucky me!

SHT Day 14 (10/2)

This morning started out like many others, it was a hazy day and I woke up late. As uncomfortable as my sleeping pad can sometimes be, I have managed to get used to it enough to sleep past my alarm at 7:30 on a regular basis. Today I got up at 8:30 and got right down to the business of walking. 

Today I was craving contact with people and culture. I found myself taking a break only 30 minutes into my hike to check my email, text a few friends, and reconnect with the outside world.

I knew that I had two options for my day: first, I could try to hike the 21 miles I need to be back on schedule (ugh), or second, I could hike 15 miles to Grand Marais, stay in a motel, and get back on the trail a few miles up the road tomorrow. Not being a thru-hiking purist (someone who demands that you pass every inch of trail) the decision was easy. I don't want to make myself suffer through the extra miles just to say or prove I can. I would rather hike moderate miles, enjoy myself, and get out of the rain that's predicted for this evening. I mean, I've hiked 260 miles now, do I have to feel guilty over missing 5?

That question is pointless. I do feel guilty, but I can't help it. I like baths and I'm lonely. The thought of being in a town full of "Minnesota nice" for the evening is irresistible.

I think I'm passed the peak color change because now the incredible display of color has moved from the trees to the ground.

I passed through this beautiful pine forest that reminded me of the Cascades.

I also had to walk a few miles on an unpaved county road to reach Grand Marais.

Once I got into town, I checked into the Gunflint Motel, a cute little place owned by a couple of old hippies. They were very welcoming, even offering to drive me back to the trail in the morning. The room had a kitchenette, a nice bathtub, and this adorable bedroom. How cute is this?!

Grand Marais is the only incorporated town in Cook county, the most northeastern of all the counties in Minnesota. It has a population of about 1,300 (as of the 2010 census), but it's unique in that it's hip, artsy, and hosts a variety of festivals throughout the year. I was really impressed by this little town. Great restaurants, espresso (hard to find out here), and seemingly tons of young people. 

I met a few people in their 20s, all from other places like Cleveland or Olympia, who moved out here for the solitude, natural beauty, and ease of finding work. One waitress even encouraged me to move out here and said she would give me part-time work! Alas, she admitted that the gay scene was non existent and my server was the only gay she knew in town. 

Here's the little restaurant where I had an early dinner.

They had the best fish 'n chips EVER.

Then I had a latte from Java Moose and, no joke, the woman in front of me ordered a Minnesota maple latte. You betcha it was delicious!

I had dessert and a few glasses of wine at a little caffe a block from my motel later in the evening. This was the restaurant with the gay server, who was totally sweet and adorable... or at least I think he was... perhaps I'm just removed enough from men that my standards have lowered. Anyway, he flirted with me for a bit which made me simultaneously flattered and more lonely.

To finish my day, I had a 2 hour appointment with my bath tub while I listened to the rain outside of my room. I definitely made the right decision on what to do with my day.

Tomorrow and Friday I have to hike through to the last sections, which I will complete with a 2 mile walk on Saturday before the shuttle picks me up at noon. It's supposed to rain and dip down to the 30s both days, so I might be soaked and cold, but I'll be marching towards the finish line. I won't have much in the way of cell reception so you might have to wait for my final updates.

Think of me while you're warm at home!

Love,

Rob

SHT Day 13 (10/1)

I didn't want to get out of bed this morning. My alarm went off at 6:30 and immediately my mind was flooded with ideas about how I could stay in this warm, dry, comfortable bed just a little bit longer. Looking around the room though, I knew that I couldn't stay in bed. I had clothes drying, hung on a line strung from the closet to the curtain rod, and everything was emptied out of my pack. 

I had known that it would take a while to put everything back together, but last night I hadn't been able to resist the temptation to take everything out of its place and make sure it was restocked (TP, water, food), cleaned (cooking supplies and clothes), and dried (rain jacket and poncho).

I got out of bed, ate an orange I found in the lobby (oh how I miss fresh fruit), sulked over the fact that the vending machine with the Combos and pretzels only took quarters and I had none, and got my pack put back together. I did find another vending machine that took dollar bills, drinks only in this one, and got a cold V8 to add to my breakfast. 

After packing and getting dressed I walked the mile or so back to the trail saying, "peace out" to the Lutsen Resort.

As soon as I got to the trail it started to rain. I thought, "no no no no no! It's supposed to be sunny until Thursday!" After a few short showers, the skies heard my logic and stopped raining. It became a beautiful, sunny, windy day. Perfect for hiking.

I loved how you could see this river, winding it's way through the valley.

Whenever I reach a high point on the trail, I usually relax and check my phone for service. In addition to being a great excuse to rest, it's a nice time to upload the previous night's blog entry or check in with my dad.

Later in the afternoon, I passed this interesting area high on a ridge. There were a bunch of benches facing the center, where there was a fire pit and a little stump, presumably where someone could stand and speak. Although it's right on the SHT it looks like it belongs to a group called Cathedral of the Pines. I should look that up when I get home. It did make a great spot to stop for a snack.

Speaking of stopping, I decided to record for you more of my favorite activity- taking breaks. I love being able to find a sunny spot, lay out my sleeping mat, and elevate my feet on my backpack. Bliss!

Another one...

It ended up being a 20+ mile day, as I'm getting close to the end and I need to make sure I'm going to finish on time to meet the shuttle that will take me back to civilization. I'm supposed to have another sunny day tomorrow, so that should be perfect for getting in more extra miles.

I found camp around 6 on a nice ridge overlooking the Cascade River. Alone again, but I'm trying to enjoy the solitude before I go back to my normal life.

I'm falling asleep as I type this. Walking all day takes a lot out of you.

Till tomorrow,

Rob

SHT Day 12 (9/30)

Today was consumed by my desire for a bed, beer, and a bath. I got out of camp by 8:30 for the 12 miles to Lutsen Resort where I had a hotel room waiting for me.

One thing I can say about the SHT is that they have fantastic latrines. There is one at every campsite, so there's always one within a few miles of any point on the trail. They keep the sites very clean and check this one out- Is there a more beautiful way to shit? I don't think so.

The day continued with more fall color. 

Halfway through my morning I came by this old advertisement for the SHTA, which is the association that advocates, maintains, and creates the guide for the SHT. I just loved the woman in this ad, she's so darn hip!

Only 6.8 miles to Lutsen!

Many of these miles were uphill. One big difference I've noticed between this trail and trails in the cascades is that they don't use switchbacks very often here. If there is a steep slope, they use wooden or rock stairs instead.

I feel like this guy was trying to attract females when I found him. Is this why they call them ruffed grouse?

I had a hard time seeing the trail for the last few miles. So many leaves!

See that building in the distance? That's where I'm spending the evening.

Since I arrived at 1:30 and couldn't check-in until 4, I decided to eat everything in sight.

Then I finally got to my room and spent an hour and a half bathing. HEAVEN!

Since the place where I'm staying doesn't have laundry service, I had to do my own. That water was dissssgggusting.

Then I spent some time unpacking the food I mailed myself and watching my clothes dry.

I also realized that the weather forecast for the rest of my trip is no bueno. Rain?! SNOW?! This is going to be exciting.

That's all. I'm too tired and full of brownies to write more today. I hope things are going well for everyone and that the government doesn't shut down tomorrow. 

Nighty night!

Rob